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WilliamDavid

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WilliamDavid

628 posts

As a tender drive it should have a Ringfield motor.

These are serviceable, unlike modern motors, and spares are easily available.

There are plenty of tutorials on youtube to show how it's done.

You can check the motor by connecting the controller wires directly to its terminals.

If it works, that indicates power is not getting to the motor.

WilliamDavid

628 posts

If you are not happy with the plug assembly,  replace it with four 30 AWG silicon wires direct. 

I secure the loose tie bar with a piece of suitable diameter heat shrink (pushed on the taper, not shrunk).

WilliamDavid

628 posts

 I have three Linx tablets I purchased via ebay, two 1010s and one 1020. They were all under £100 and work fine. I use one with my Elite to play trains, one with my Elink to do the cv stuff. and one to watch ebay, etc.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Linx-1010-10-1-Inch-Tablet-Black-Intel-Atom-Z3735F-1-33-GHz-2-GB-RAM-32-GB/392137454835?epid=2288213710&hash=item5b4d36b4f3:g:U7cAAOSwuZpbt~ja

WilliamDavid

628 posts

Adam has done the necessary, and one Mallard tender is on its way.

WilliamDavid

628 posts

@walkingthedog

Try the report button like I suggested. 

I have, twice.

WilliamDavid

628 posts

@GNR-Gordon-4

Adam's email address is: forum@hornby.com.

 

GNR-Gordon-4

This doesn't work for me.

 

WilliamDavid

628 posts

I hard wire from the tender pickups through to the loco.

You can solder them to the 8 pin board where the loco pickup wires go.

WilliamDavid

628 posts

Are you sure it is a Ringfield?

The recent Railroad Class 31 fooled me at first glance, but  had a cleverly diguised can motor.

WilliamDavid

628 posts

I used the tender assembly. 

Much tidier than trying to make your own.

I like using 30 AWG silicon wire off ebay

A worthwhile modification.

WilliamDavid

628 posts

I now use the gel type superglue.

A small blob applied with a cocktail stick.

Very controllable .

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