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Chrissaf

Signature: Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Bio: Retired, but spent my career working in IT and Electronics. So using a PC to control things is what rocks my boat.

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Chrissaf

7205 posts


What loco R number are you trying to set up?

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Since you mention horn and engine start up it must be a sound loco. Is it a TTS? TTS locos are notorious for not having correct function labelling in the database for some of the TTS models.

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TIP: When inputting the Hornby R number for a TTS loco in the loco set up screen search box, only use the T suffix rather than TTS (example RnnnnT rather than RnnnnTTS) using the full TTS sometimes doesn't find the loco.

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Assuming that you have called up the correct loco from the RailMaster database then normally the function list will match what is shown on the instruction sheet that is included with the loco. However, in cases where the function labels do NOT match, then the function button labels can easily be editied within the loco setup screen to match what is documented on the instruction sheet included with the loco in the box.

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This previous post gives an example of setting up function buttons with a further link to some screen shots in a step by step tutorial. It probably won't be exactly your loco (as you haven't said what loco it is) but it should give you an overview process to fill in the gaps in your knowledge.

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See third reply down on this page....follow the embedded links within the reply for more detailed information with the screen shots.

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/how-to-set-up-default-sound-functions-on-scotsman-r3284tts/?p=1

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Important Note: If a sound needs to lock on such as engine start for example, the Function button label MUST contain the phrase "on/off" (without the " " quotation marks).

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In answer to your question:

Is it better to use my Hornby Elite or RailMaster Pro for programming Locos?

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This is down to personal choice, whatever you find easier. Either way isn't better than the other, just different. Personally, I prefer using RailMaster rather than my Elite. I prefer using the GUI (Graphical User Interface) as there is less button pressing and knob twiddling, plus the benefit of visual feedback of what is being done to the DCC decoder.

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PS - I'm always patient. And since as a newbie you are intitially restricted to just two posts I shall have to be even more patient to find out if I have answered your question to your satisfaction Wink

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The 2 post newbie posting restriction will be lifted soon on your forum account. It is there to stop spamming autobots from flooding the forum with junk posts.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


Post moved to the RailMaster sub-forum and title ammended to replace Trackmaster with RailMaster.

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You can find your relocated and retitled post here:

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/programming-elite-or-railmaster/?p=1/

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


Try this URL

https://youtu.be/coR75FdO8no

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Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


Firstly, I assume you mean RailMaster and not Trackmaster (Trackmaster is a track layout design software tool.....it is RailMaster that is used for programming loco decoders).

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What exactly do you mean by "......when I use the Elite, the functions don’t seem to match when I open up Trackmaster (assume you mean RailMaster)?"

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What functions? give an example please.

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Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


Firstly I am just repeating a fix suggested previously by others on the forum. I have never had a need to resort to trying it out. Secondly, I do not use Hornby track. So a photo of my track would be ineffective. Sorry.

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Maybe somebody else who has actually used this fix will read this reply and post a photo.

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PS - If I had Hornby track and had used this fix myself, then I would have gladly posted the photo as requested. It would have been no trouble at all.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


£118 is the going price for a Loksound decoder loaded with Legomanbiffo sounds (Rolls Royce combination). After all, the Class 800 is not a cheap model either. Everything is relative. As I understand it, Legomanbiffo is first to market with a 'Class 800 sound project' decoder. Legmanbiffo sounds are recordings of the real thing, hence why the web page link references the assistance given by Hitachi in the creation of the sound project.

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A 'bare bones' Loksound V4 without any sounds loaded on it, retails at about £85 to £99.

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If you want cheap, then you will have to wait for a TTS (which may never happen) and will probably be artificially synthesised sounds.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


I've added the link to my forum Word boilerplate document. I also have the forum version URL recorded in the boilerplate as well.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


One Christmas many years ago, my sister bought me a traditional shaving kit mounted on an Onyx base. After opening the present and thanking her I sat there rubbing my fingers through a full face beard. My sisters children gleefully pointed out to my sister that I had a beard.

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My sister looked surprised.

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"How long have you had that?" she asked

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"Not long, just the last 3 years" I replied.

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My nephews and niece thought it was hilarious that my sister had not noticed.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


Were all the original Hornby Sound locos (not TTS) fitted with LokSound V.4?

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Depends......My Hornby 08 shunter has a Hornby factory fitted Loksound V3.5. Loksound V3.0 documentation is also downloadable on the Hornby website, so that infers some early Hornby sound locos might have had V3 decoders fitted.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7205 posts


Well if it worked before you took it apart (albeit noisily), then one would assume you made an error in the re-assembly process you adopted. Did you take pictures of how it went together for reference purposes before you got your screwdriver out. Probably something is now not aligned correctly.

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Does the motor make any noise at all when power is applied, is it trying to turn or is it completely dead audibly. It may be an electrical motor issue rather than a physical gear issue.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

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