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Chrissaf

Signature: Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Bio: Retired, but spent my career working in IT and Electronics. So using a PC to control things is what rocks my boat.

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Chrissaf

7610 posts


I followed the advice from Chrissaf about prising open the cover and taking the capacitor out, I then followed RAF96 and put the capacitor in just as shown in RAF96 image he sent.

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I'm confused. You took the capacitor out as per my diagnostic check (so that means the power clip had the capacitor fitted when it shouldn't have had). Then you say, you put the capacitor back in as per Rob's photo. Rob's post was also advising to take the capacitor out if one was found, not re-instate it.

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For DCC to function correctly, none of the power clips or power tracks should have a capacitor fitted remove ALL capacitors that you find.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


Boetie, you seem to have wasted your 2nd Newbie post by using the 'white arrow in blue box button' without adding any new text content. Your wasted post now removed to give you a second chance to post if you can.

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TIP: You will have better luck with your replies if you do not use the 'white arrow in the blue box' button. This is not a 'Reply to this post' button. It is better to write your reply in the 'Reply text box' at the bottom of the page and click the green 'Reply' button.

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Not having a go, using the blue button is something all relative newbies on the forum seem to do for some reason. I blame the forum SW developers for putting it there, just where a 'Reply' button is expected to be.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


Page 31 in the current manual

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Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


.....can I write them in to the program, and how?

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Yes

In the 'Locomotive Set Up' Screen. Just edit the function button label directly in the text box field that displays it. Note that if a function is supposed to stay latched on, then the text on/off MUST be written on the function button label. There is a limitation on the number of characters you can write, so use short names and abbreviations as appropriate.

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The 'check boxes' on the right hand side select the six (only six can be selected) functions that will appear on the small throttle. All functions will appear on the large throttle. The function buttons on the large throttle are scrollable to see those functions above the ones that are initially visible.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


It was and still is my very first and only Arduino project. Mine worked first time I powered it up.

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I purposely didn't write up making the DCC interface board in the original 'How To' PDF. As there are only about 6 components to solder up and lots of different ways you could make the board. There are only three connections between the interface board and the Arduino. This information omission is rectified in the suggested construction arrangement below.

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The Arduino 'Shield' (green circuit board) I used to mount the interface components on, is not like Vero strip board. Basically you create your own tracks on the back of the board with short wire straps (insulated wires where necessary) to interconnect the components. Alternatively if you are more comfortable with standard copper strip board, then use that and just make the three wire connections that are required between it and the Arduino. Which are +5 volts plus 0 volt (Gnd) and DCC Input to Arduino (Pin 2). Note that the +5V is an output from the Arduino to power the DCC interface board, it is not a +5V supply input to the Arduino. The Arduino gets its power from the USB lead that attaches it to the PC.

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The advantage of using the proposed 'Shield' is that the three connections to the Arduino are more robust and therefore more reliable because the connections are made with the plated strip terminal pins included in my document parts list. Because the 'Shield' is designed as an Arduino UNO accessory, all the pin & mounting holes line up exactly. Three connection pins are soldered to the 'Shield' and then the 'Shield' is just plugged and clamped with insulating nylon screws to the Arduino to make the final connections.

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Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


How strange Rob. The idea of thinking that red and green indicated some form of traffic light system never even entered my head. I just look at the buttons from the point of view as to what side of the point they are placed. To my thought processes, the colour was completely immaterial. They could even have been the same colour it doesn't matter to me.

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However, I think Hornby originally chose Red and Green for the buttons because (if wired the correct way round), the colours represent Hornby's standard Red & Green point wiring colours. That is to say, clicking the Red button puts an operating pulse on the Red wire, and Green on Green.

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Clicking the Red button, puts an output pulse of the R8247 + terminal. This is the terminal that is normally used for the Red wire**, well that is if the motor is mounted in the correct orientation. Of course if the motor is mounted 180° on the point then the wires are reversed.

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Note** although there is no official Hornby documentation I can find that confirms this.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


I cannot gel with RMs red/green oddly arrowed buttons - totally illogical to me.

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The arrows seem completely pointless to me too (pun intended). That's why I have my track plan configured to show the original point operating button icons without the arrows.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


leem,

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I have just removed one of your two attempts above to reply where you have used the blue button without adding any additional text. I only left the second one because you did end up adding some new text in an edit. However it would have been better appreciated if you had followed the TIP below. Given that "ellocoloco" was the only prior reply and directly above yours, re-quoting it was rather superfluous.

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TIP: You will have better luck with your replies if you do not use the 'white arrow in the blue box' button. This is not a 'Reply to this post' button. It is better to write your reply in the 'Reply text box' at the bottom of the page and click the green 'Reply' button.

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Not having a go, using the blue button is something all relative newbies on the forum seem to do for some reason. I blame the forum SW developers for putting it there, just where a 'Reply' button is expected to be.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


Actually, there is an error in that old post of mine from 2016 (only just spotted). The R911 label doesn't say 1.1 Amps, it says 1.1 VA. Which is something completely different. However, there is nothing in that old post of mine that contradicts what has been said in this thread. Even after taking my original label reading error into account.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

7610 posts


The father also went on to say ".....he cut the dcc wires rather than pulling the chip out." this to me indicates that it was the wires between the plug and the decoder that have been cut. Also, the Class 395 Javelin PCB board that Rob posted a picture of, shows that the socket is mounted directly on the main loco PCB, so there will not be any socket wires to cut.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

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