Lots of fiddly bits that need completing before we can finish the tender and test it out.First was to make some fixing points so that the body of the tender can be removed for servicing should things need to be worked on at a later date.
The red arrows mark the 3 fixing screws one at the rear of the tender and 2 at the front ether side of the frames.
Now happy that the body fitted alright some of the other parts of the tender can now be built.
As I may have said before the power rails to connect the bogie wiring would be a section of printed board fitted on top of the chassis running from front to back the red wires from the bogies will be connected to this Printed Board.
The picture here shows the printed board and the main power connections at the front with 2 pins soldered to the PCB these 2 pins will take the power from the tender to the engine.Also in the picture are the 2 connectors the top one is how it looks finished the bottom one shows the connector and wire before the sleeving is added
When the engine and the tender are connected together the 2 wires will be like on my other engines and look like water and brake pipes.By using this type of connection removing the connections for servicing is a little better and these connection can take a lot more than 6 Amps so should never need replacing.
At the other end of the PCB is the flickering LED that provides the light for the oil lamp fitted to the rear panel of the tender body.I have covered how the little assembly is made before so will leave the detail of construction but for those that want to see how to make it look at the B15/S69 construction in the forum.
This small printed board carries all the components to drive the lamp.
A bracket was soldered to the copper track of the main power printed board and to this the lamp board was fixed with 2 screws this will make one of the two connections to drive the LED. The hole above the 2 screws is for the light from the red LED to shine through.
The oil lamp has a hole drilled through it and a fibre optic cable fixed in place so that it holds the lamp onto the back panel of the tender and therefore links to the inside to pick up the light from the flickering LED.
The flickering red LED needs to be painted black all but the front or as I have covered in heat shrink sleeving this is to stop the light from showing under the tender at night.
The black wire in the picture will be connected to a tag and then screwed to the other copper track on the power PCB.You might just make out the black sleeving covering the LED in this picture.
With a couple of test wires connected the small light can be assembled to the chassis to see what it looks like.
With out the body in place you can see the light showing through the printed board.
And when the body is fitted the light now shows on the lamp lens what you can not see from these pictures is that this red LED is flickering and when looking at the oil lamp on the tender it looks as if it is a real oil lamp flicking away.
Just he main steam pipe to sort out and then try some tests.