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Gowest

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gowest

841 posts

Hi Rob

might look that one up 

Ken

gowest

841 posts

Hi Rob

you have just jogged my memory when at Marconi Radar we had a test site at Rivenhall Essex which was a second WW bomber base many of the buildings were still there and the runways to.

my friend and I were working nights on a bit of kit and one night at about 2.00 o clock in the morning we could hear an air craft starting its engines up one by one I looked at my mate and he looked at me as we tried to pin point the noise and what it might be?

just then the door to the hut we were working in opened and a Marconi security guard walked in as they did through the night we asked him about the sound we had heard and he said that he had come across all sorts of thing most unexplained one thing he said he had seen a few times was an airman in flying jacket walking from the cinema building across a roadway to another building and disappearing Into thin air.

Ken

 

gowest

841 posts

The old and the new in steam that is I wonder what they might be saying?

As some will know I try to fit working oil lamps to the models that I make but even none working head lamps might be a challenge for this engine as the lamp brackets had wings so that they would look streamlined as the rest of the engine.

I’ll have a go and see what I can do.

The rear lamp is just a standard LMS lamp and I have explained how I make these for other engines on this forum so with out going into detail the idea is as in the layout drawing here using a flickering LED on a small printed board an off the shelf lamp and drill a hole through the lamp and tender end wall then fix the lamp in place with fibre optic cable. 

A brass bracket was made to hold the printed board in the right position.The connections for the power to supply the printed board was by way of 2 sprung forks which would slot into the brass chassis frames.

You might be able to see the contacts on the small printed boar in this picture 

Once the rear lamp was tested out and it worked OK the only thing left to do was fill the tender with water and test it out to see if it ran alright and that there was not going to be any problems with the chassis or wheels.

A Flying Scotsman was going to the engine for this test as I didn't want to cover my Duchess, nice red paint in steam oil before the tender was painted and the completed engine can then be photographed 

The tender ran for an hour or more with no problems so the body can now be painted and lined out.

gowest

841 posts

The tender was started some time back the frames were machined from some brass strip with the axle box positions  marked out for a 6 wheel tender not a 8 wheel tender as the A4

.

The main fixing holes were drilled in the frames so that the screws would be in the best places within the new plastic insulator i had made but all this was in vain as in the end I used the Hornby insulator.

All that was needed was to file the new axle positions in place which you might be able to see in this picture below.

The chassis will be fixed to the body by 3 screws 2 small screws at the front and 1 larger screw at the rear this will be a special screw so that a Hornby coupling can be attached to it.

Having a model which has a body made from brass not plastic gives problems with electrical insulation.

So to fix the chassis to the body some sort of insulation is needed.

For this I used some small strips of printed board one long strip at the front and a shorter strip at the rear of the tender. You can see these in this picture and these were held in place with 4 small screws drilled that tapped into the top edge of the frames.

The axle boxes were held in place with another long section of printed board fixed in place with 6 screws again drilled and tapped into the bottom edge of the brass frames.

This printed board would have 4 small brass brackets soldered in place and the frame sections from the kit with the springs and axle boxes were going to be held in place with 4 screw 2 each side into these small brackets as in the picture here.

I had a go at trying to add the fine detail into the ends of the tender and going by my Hornby model this is the result not  100 % but it will have to do and if I drive it fast enough people will not see it that well.

Once altogether the tender was looking pretty good the next part is to fit the hornby boiler which just about goes in nicely Then the wiring can go in and a working rear lamp.

I've had the boiler sitting in a bowl of acid to give it a good clean so with a new heater and thermostat cut out I can try it out with a few steam runs soon. 

gowest

841 posts

Nanny

selling live steam would not be a problem you can get in touch with the 00 Live Steam Club and see what they can do by email but with any sale a description of each item even the boxes should be given most important is do they run is all the fine detail still there like steps on the Flying Scotsman I say this as a buyer will need to know this and without it they will only be asking question when reading your add once you have established the condition then I would think eBay will give you the best cover. Take a couple of good detail pictures of the different items this way buyers can see just how good they are and it's the condition that in the end will govern the price.

hope this helps good luck Ken

gowest

841 posts

Rob I've got a nice 12 year whiskey should have had a glass might have help just going to find it its time for a swift one to toast a job done the tender should be a bit easier and thats next after a make the whistl.

gowest

841 posts

Well the test steaming went well and the engine pull 7 carriages so I can draw a line under that and say that with the 7 carriages on and the regulator set for slow to medium running the engine pulled well and the safety valve lifted in 2 places around my small track this always shows that the engine is set up right and there are not leaks of steam this you can see in the video with the body off just as I am following the engine towards the tunnel when there’s a short from the safety valve and also picked up on the sound track. .

So with the painting.

The paint job, this you can never tell how it will go some times it goes well some it does not.It started ok and some grey primmer was applied to the body shell. This look good so when it was dry the maroon LMS red was mixed up and the first coat applied.But looking at the front of the body a paint run was clearly visible.

So leaving the paint to dry hard as it was too soft to rub down i left well alone.Once the paint had hardened some water and soap plus a section of 1000 wet/dry paper was used to remove this paint run and then a re spray this time things looked much better.

Happy with the finish now its transfer time this nearly caused a devoice as I was trying to apply the lining out at the kitchen table my beloved wife was writing Christmas cards and the from time to time the table would rock it was like trying to work in a rowing boat?

I looked and looked before starting thinking well if it all goes wrong I’ll just buy another set of transfers.To apply them in one strip It was going to be unmanageable so the section that fits around the very from was cut off and would be applied first fitting it around the steps and handles.

Here is the finished body  the transfers didn’t come out too bad and they will have to go a bit wonky in places.

gowest

841 posts

Hi Rob

i have a blue Princess Alexandra running on Zero one which comes with coaches and a spare set of bogeys of the correct scale if you have it on display.

have just finished the red and managed to get one paint run right in the front so will have to rub it down a little and blow it in.

as for the lining out not sure how this will end up?

ken

gowest

841 posts

Thanks for the comments body now in grey primer

gowest

841 posts

 

Some test runs 

https://youtu.be/L93NgucpveY

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