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Gowest

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gowest

704 posts

Yes Rob for there size engines generate a lot of power for there size and I should have included slow starts and runs plus the most important stops at a station as that's the skill for any steam train driver is stopping at the right place in the platform did I tell of the story of the train that stopped short at Romford station in the blackout in the war, the last carriage was not in the platform but on the road dredge a soldier got out of the compartment and in the dark thought he was on the platform but was standing on the bridge wall he took a step back and fell down into the road sustained a broken leg!

gowest

704 posts

 

I need to get some of that foam as I have a upvc back door to fit next week the old one falling to bits. Still have up loaded some video of the latest runs still think the tender boiler might need a new one as the coal area was larger then I thought could use this extra space and make it shorter so reducing the surface area and also bring the heater nearer to the centre of the boiler, still here's the link to the video.

https://youtu.be/OHC-3ras2Ws

gowest

704 posts

Rob 

is that the foam filler in a tin for buildings ? Did some steam tests yeaster not bad but not good will try some video this after noon and post the out come all being well.

ken

gowest

704 posts

Rob what a great idea to lag the body not the boiler why didn't I think of that or if space do both just this minute finished making and soldering in the new heater tube but need a new heater as the old one has had it. Once that's fitted I can see what happens this time as I think the less than good long run might be down to very small steam leaks around the heater? 

ken

gowest

704 posts

Rob

leaks and the like are always a problem i can remeber a RADAR cabin that had 2 pipe connectors one for compressed air and one for water someone got it round the wrong way the wave guid was full of water the the cooling system was full of air could not switch on power luckly as flow switches were all wrong all lights and bells. 

stil this jobs not going well read on..........

Changes were made to correct the earlier problems and then some retesting could be carried out. As you can see in this picture the tender boiler in now lagged with some heat proof marital in the hope that heat will not be lost through the brass boiler casing.

Once more the water and steam oil was added and the engine left to make some steam pressure once the safety valves were lifting it was time to see what would happen. Off round my track it went and this time looked good I run the engine for a good 20 minutes and all was working well no steam leaks or water leaks and no short circuits.The new red flicker light was working ok so things were looking good so a longer run was under taken to see just how long this engine was going to run for with this larger tender boiler?

Every thing was checked out for this world record attempt. The engine set off at a good speed and was left to run the time was logged and when it stopped due to lack of water the time would be taken once more and this total time was 30 minutes about the same time as the Hornby engines so no improvement on running time. 

Then it was noticed that the red light PCB was burning out again and this was due to a steam leak on the main tender heater O ring seal it was clear that this idea was not going to work and that a change should be made to revert to the Hornby copper tube silver soldered in the boiler and the heater fitted in this sleeve.The tender boiler will need to be striped down and the copper tube added then try again.

gowest

704 posts

hi Rob

yes i did that in the hope that things would work better but time will tell i have completed the mods and run the engine and thing are not right but look a bit better as the engine runs for a short time before running out of steam pressure, but left for a minute it is soon off again. 

will do further testing to see how its going think there might be a steam leak somewhere need to look over the boiler.

gowest

704 posts

With the steam out let pipe completed and the screw clamping termination points in the picture for the bogie wiring completed it was time for some testing with the new tender.

 The bogie sets of wheels look close together in this picture but as the amount of movement is very small it should not be a problem.

The relative connections were made between the engine and tender and the tender filled with water, on the engine all the oiling points were carried out and the engine left to raise steam. Some steam was achieved after a short period of time but was lost through the tend safety valve which needed resetting to a higher pressure.

Once these small problems were over come the engine was left to steam up once more.Things looked to be going ok but there did not seem to be enough steam being generated to drive the engine?Was this a recurrence of Maunsell problems of poor steaming in the early days of the Lord Nelson class coming back to haunt us.Why was it that after all this work this engine was not going to be all I thought it might be. Was the tender boiler to large a mass for the heater to make the required amount of steam? Was there too much surface area to this boiler so that the heat generated was being lost to the surrounding environment ? All these points needed to be looked into if this engine was going to be a runner.

Then the rear lamp printed board in the tender burst into flames, could things get any worse the answer is yes I gave the engine a push to see if it would run and a second fire appeared this time between the tender and the engine it was the spring armoured sleeve covering the silicon water pipe which lit up like an electric fire element burning the pipe (see picture) in seconds which then popped as the steam pressure escaped not a very good start to report back.

MOD’s

1. Find the short in the tender body and rectify plus remake the connecting water pipe

2. Remake the tender oil lamp PCB and seal with Araldite

3. Lag the tender boiler to retain the heat.

Once the above has been done out new tests can be carried out watch this space!

 

gowest

704 posts

If you want to see how to make the flashing oil lamp you can see it in more detail in the live steam forum under the B12 on page 23

gowest

704 posts

Hi Rob

looked up some YouTube video of the Land Rover running on rails and it looks great the tyres of the Land Rover still do the driving I see the rail wheels just keep the car on the track never seen this before would'nt wont to try it with my Land Rover.

as for the light on the tender a little time back I built a West Country class engine and as before fitted the LED light idea in the tender but never looked to close at the LED I was using as it should have been just a plain LED but you guessed it I put the wrong one in and as the lighting on these engines was all electric having a steam turbine I looks like the bulb loose as if flickers away.

Dad told me of a distant signal that had an oil lamp fitted in it and this signal was high off the ground and this old system of lighting had a bi metal strip in the lid with 2 wires running back to the signal box connected to a meter in a Woden box so that if the lamp went out the signalman would get a Lamp Out on his indicator. Anyway this winters windy night the lamp went out on this signal and off Dad went to check it out which was a long walk to the signal up he climbed and with some matches re lite the lamp and walked back to the signal box only to find out it had gone out again 3 times he went to this signal boy was he glad when all electric signals came in.

gowest

704 posts

Lots of fiddly bits that need completing before we can finish the tender and test it out.First was to make some fixing points so that the body of the tender can be removed for servicing should things need to be worked on at a later date.

 

The red arrows mark the 3 fixing screws one at the rear of the tender and 2 at the front ether side of the frames.

Now happy that the body fitted alright some of the other parts of the tender can now be built.

As I may have said before the power rails to connect the bogie wiring would be a section of printed board fitted on top of the chassis running from front to back the red wires from the bogies will be connected to this Printed Board.

The picture here shows the printed board and the main power connections at the front with 2 pins soldered to the PCB these 2 pins will take the power from the tender to the engine.Also in the picture are the 2 connectors the top one is how it looks finished the bottom one shows the connector and wire before the sleeving is added

When the engine and the tender are connected together the 2 wires will be like on my other engines and look like water and brake pipes.By using this type of connection removing the connections for servicing is a little better and these connection can take a lot more than 6 Amps so should never need replacing.

At the other end of the PCB is the flickering LED that provides the light for the oil lamp fitted to the rear panel of the tender body.I have covered how the little assembly is made before so will leave the detail of construction but for those that want to see how to make it look at the B15/S69 construction in the forum.

This small printed board carries all the components to drive the lamp.

A bracket was soldered to the copper track of the main power printed board and to this the lamp board was fixed with 2 screws this will make one of the two connections to drive the LED. The hole above the 2 screws is for the light from the red LED to shine through.

The oil lamp has a hole drilled through it and a fibre optic cable fixed in place so that it holds the lamp onto the back panel of the tender and therefore links to the inside to pick up the light from the flickering LED.

The flickering red LED needs to be painted black all but the front or as I have covered in heat shrink sleeving this is to stop the light from showing under the tender at night.

The black wire in the picture will be connected to a tag and then screwed to the other copper track on the power PCB.You might just make out the black sleeving covering the LED in this picture.

With a couple of test wires connected the small light can be assembled to the chassis to see what it looks like.

With out the body in place you can see the light showing through the printed board. 

And when the body is fitted the light now shows on the lamp lens what you can not see from these pictures is that this red LED is flickering and when looking at the oil lamp on the tender it looks as if it is a real oil lamp flicking away.

Just he main steam pipe to sort out and then try some tests.

 

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