Raised Track

[Munngoj]

Hi

I have recently got back into (by way of 2 1/2 year old son), model railways. Now i didn't really do a lot first time around, but i am reasonably skilled with my hands.

I have created a 3-2 loop layout which i am starting to place on a drop down/wall mounted board 1200mm(d) x 1500mm(l)

So it isn't one dimensional, i have a 50mm raised edge/frame around it to allow items to be fixed down such as platforms.

What i would like to do is raise the rear half of the loop just a little, to add i little height to the track. The R3 loop is independent and doesn't have a connection to the inner R2 &R1.

If i wanted to raise it say 20mm, what would you reccommend?

Thanks in advance

[LCDR]

 Creating gradients can add interest to a layout but will also introduce a potential operating nuisance. Before fixing it down permanently I would suggest you build it temporarily and try your trains on it to see if every one negotiates the circuit without difficulty.

[The son of Triangman]

Gradients as has been said can be an operation nuisance. Today's locos tend to be less powerful than their predecessors as well and struggle on the gradients used on layouts of years gone by.    LC&DR offers good advice.

 

I see you mention first radius R1, this can be a problem as a lot of today's large China made locos don't run on 1st radius, they need 2nd radius as a minimum usually.

[2e0dtoeric]

About all you can run on R1 (which is a left-over from the early Triang-Hornby days, really), is the tiny 0-4-0 and a few four-wheel wagons. Think of it as a dockyard or factory internal track.

Modern-built large 'express' loco's and especially the new IET (which is longer than usual), prefer R4 as a minimum, although they can be coaxed around R3.

As said above, gradients can be a nightmare, and a gradient on a curve is even worse! You MUST have a gentle sweep up from level to climb, and over to level again at the top, no pointy corners, or the engines will either derail or get stuck. For 20mm, (less than an inch) you will need about 600MM (2 feet) approach, and the same again on the other side - in a straight line, twice that round a curve!

[The Doc]

@Eric,

It's not true to say that all you can run on R1 is the old 0-4-0 locos.  Apart from all the secondhand Hornby dating up to the late 1980s, there are plenty of modern locos that run perfectly well.  Here are some examples of mine: From the steam range, Hornby D16, J15, J50 and J94, several Railroad 4-4-0s and Bo-Bo diesels (Warship, Class 73) and some of the finer detail Bachmann diesels too (e.g. class 20, 24).  If you want proof, have a look at:

It's true that plenty of modern locos won't cope with first radius, but that shouldn't rule it out.  If you haven't much space and you want a small oval, it's better than nothing.  I've built a layout with 9" radius curves, and several 0-6-0s can manage that:

[Ashbourne Junction]

The best system is the WS riser set. Go with the shallow gradients and they conform to most curves and give perfect rises. Use the shallowest you can. The foam material is very compliant. I have used it successfully in tight radius with no issues from my locos including express models.

[Munngoj]

Thanks all.

I am only going to raise some of the R3 oval, so no issues elsewhere. I tried my APT on it and it ran fine, although i would love to move up to R4 for it. Maybe next layout...

The R2 & R1 loops are connected and we have a couple of 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 locos that run on them, so that should take care of that section.

The foam looks workable, how would you advise covering it unltimately as we move forward?

Thanks

[Jimbo1707820979]

@ The Doc

Excellent summary and the videos provide really practical information.   "the proof of the pudding etc etc"   Thanks for your work on this.

[Ashbourne Junction]

Thanks all.

I am only going to raise some of the R3 oval, so no issues elsewhere. I tried my APT on it and it ran fine, although i would love to move up to R4 for it. Maybe next layout...

The R2 & R1 loops are connected and we have a couple of 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 locos that run on them, so that should take care of that section.

The foam looks workable, how would you advise covering it unltimately as we move forward?

Thanks

I would overlay an additional trackbed (same brand) then use foam putty, polyfilla or plaster cloth on the edges to create the terrain and fill gaps. Alternatively, use some walling or brick work to cover the edges. Printed A4 walling sheets (textured) are available on the ‘bay which make the job simple for the edges, which can be easily cut, bent and glued to conform with the shape of the riser. Also ensure the riser does not finish when exiting a corner, as the combination with derail express trains such as Coronation Class. In other words, ensure there is enough room for the loco to straighen up after corner exit, before the levelling at the desired height.