new to dcc

[markdcc]

Hi everyone... ive got a probelm with my new dcc. ive bought 2 brand new hornby dcc ready engines, i also bought a 'select' (used but in vgc form ebay), and it switches on and sets its self up ok. Ive been eager to get my new layout up and running

2 problems have arisen.

Number 1: when i put the engine on the track, it just goes on and on with now control over it. From what i have read, its most probably due to dirty track or its in dc mode. Ive cleaned the track and i have re-set the select controller, same issue still happens.. i was (havent yet) going to solder all the fishplates so that there is a much better connection on the track circuit.

Number 2: if its not the above happening ( a runaway engine), when i do put the engine on the track, the loco doesnt move but you can it it humming (or that sort of sound).

Im also trying to build a test dcc track, so that i can at least test everything.

Engine 1: HORNBY R3783 SOUTHERN RAILWAY 0-6-0 TERRIER LOCOMOTIVE NO.2662 Engine 2: HORNBY R3232 OO - LATE BR BLACK 0-6-0 CLASS J15 LOCOMOTIVE No.65445 Controller: Hornby R8213 Select DCC Digital Controller

My question is... where am i going wrong with getting the engines running properly?

[96RAF]

The clue is in DCC Ready, which means they are ready for you to plug in a DCC decoder to make them DCC Fitted - then they will work with your Select.

 

A decoder out of the factory has a default address of 3 so you have to give each loco some other address In order to be able to control each one individually.

 

You should be aware that the Terrier needs a Hornby 6 pin decoder with a harness as there is no room for a direct fit 6-pin decoder. The J15 as far as I know needs a standard 8-pin decoder.

 

Until you have fitted decoders it is not recommended to even place a DC loco on a DCC track else you run the risk of burning the motor out.

[markdcc]

Thank you for that, much appriciated...a big learning curve. i will get hold of the decoders and give it a go. I am also assuming that a harness for the terrier could just be a coal tender or a wagon attached to the loco to hide the decoder.

[Chrissaf]

No the harness is a wiring harness that acts as an interface between the plug in decoder and the socket in the loco. As Rob says, the R3783 Terrier has a 6 pin decoder socket, which will be currently fitted with a bypass blanking plug which needs to be replaced with a decoder. This in itself is rather unusual as most Hornby locos are 8 pin, although some of the smaller 0-4-0 locos are 4 pin. But 6 pin decoders in Hornby locos is not that common.

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Many branded 6 pin decoders have their plugs integrated into the decoder PCB.

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An example 6 pin decoder without a harness and integrated plug is shown below.

/media/tinymce_upload/94d3f580fecc504a3a9c9f92087cad12.jpg

Rob is saying that this Terrier needs a wired harness type 6 pin decoder instead.

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The Hornby recommended 6 pin decoder with harness is the R7150. You can see the wires forming the harness through the packaging window.

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/media/tinymce_upload/9024a416906bbeebec00b7302bf6f8e6.jpg

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The R3232 J15 on the other hand has a standard 8 pin decoder socket. So any branded 8 pin decoder will be suitable. The Hornby one would be the R8249 DCC Decoder. Again the loco will be fitted with an 8 pin Bypass blanking plate (plug) that needs to be replaced by the decoder

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R8249 8 Pin Decoder

/media/tinymce_upload/330a78cd83b8e16c58fd5c09e467b4d3.jpg

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Keep the removed Blanking Plates (Plugs) safely stored with your loco packaging. They may be needed later if you need to replace the decoder with them to diagnose a fault. Or sell the loco on without the decoder.

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TIP: I write long posts. If you intend to write a reply, it would be appreciated if you didn't use the 'White Arrow in Blue Box' button. This is not a 'Reply to this post button. It is best to write any reply you want to make in the 'Reply Text Box' at the very bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

 

Particularly as my reply includes an image. If you use the blue button, any reply you write, may be held back for image approval. Even though it is already a previously published image.

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[RDS]

@markdcc

Do NOT Solder the Fishplates as you have suggested in your initial post.  If your track is new, the connections should be very good.  If it is not new, you can improve the connection by nipping the Fishplate ever so slightly with some pliers. (The emphasis here though is the EVER SO SLIGHTLY).

The sliding Fishplates allow the small amount of movement caused by Temperature changes.  Your track may warp if the joint is soldered.