M Menu
b 0 Items s

SLord Nelson

gowest

892 posts

The painting was going well the paint was a gloss finish which comes up very shiny which is a good surface for the transfers to go onto it allows thetransfers to side better and when dry stick better.This gloss is a bit over the top for me but as I prefer a more matt finish once all the detailed work is done then I spray the complete body with a semi matt finish varnish this make it look better than the gloss and also adds a seal to the transfers.

When the paint is dry then the fiddly job of applying the transfers is carried out it was when I was doing this that I noticed a missing part or should I say parts to the engines body.Did any one else spot the missing parts?

Look closely at the picture here and see if you can see it.

Here are the missing parts which were the front steps and I only discovery it as I was looking at pictures of the class for painting details that I suddenly noticed that they were missing. so they were quickly made up and soldered in place both sides of the engine and could then be painted along with the valance as the paint had lifted here due to the heat of the soldering.

This had come about because the brass kit had no plans in the box with all the parts to build the engine and so it was a guess what goes where type of build but having said that I should have known as there isan't many engines that do not have steps in this position..

RAF96

10149 posts


Community Moderator

Front steps - hiding in plain sight.

Rob

Halton Brat - Running Win 10, 64-bit - RM (Pro-Pack) with Elite as Controller-A, Select as Walkabout and E-Link as Controller-B - Locos are mostly TTS. http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page21.html

gowest

892 posts

Now back to the painting these Southern locos had a black thin out line to the tender bodies then working inwards from this black painted area started the lining art work and I found that to paint this would be difficult with out lots of masking out so I opted for this pen idea so drawing around the tender body first with about a 1 millimetre line before applying the transfers was a way to over come this tricky job.

The engine body was very straight Forward once the paint had hardened off to fix these transfers in place once all this was completed and dried well I can then over spray the complete model in a satin varnish this will fix the transfers and protect them from the heat and oil.

The crew are now fixed in position and working away even though all the gauges seem to be reading zero. After the varnish has dried then the name plates can be glued onto the wheel splashers and the buffers and springs fitted the number of job are getting less now as the final of this build is getting closer.

The parts for the new boiler turned up and so the metal work for this new boiler could be silver soldered together and completed

Once the boiler had been cleaned a small amount of water was put inside  the boiler and it fired up, standard practice is to carry out a hydraulic test at twice the working pressure which would be 60 psi held for a couple of hours if no loss in pressure then a steam test done at 30 psi and the fittings checked and safety valve operation checked out. All I wanted to know was the boiler steam tight so that’s why you see it here connected to a second tender and left to boil if I had time I would have made up some fittings and a large pressure gauge so I could see what was going on but left that part out as said I just wanted to see if I had any leaks.

The end of the out let pipe where steam would be taken off for the engine was crimped over and the only place I could see water and steam from was this pipe as you can see from the picture so it looked good, so happy with this stage of the work it was back to the painting and here are some pictures of the finished tender body sorry about the wobbly lines but things look worse in close up photography.

 

RAF96

10149 posts


Community Moderator

When you see it in the brass it is hard to think the finished article is the same thing.

Job really well done Ken.

Rob

Halton Brat - Running Win 10, 64-bit - RM (Pro-Pack) with Elite as Controller-A, Select as Walkabout and E-Link as Controller-B - Locos are mostly TTS. http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page21.html

Ericm0hff

6056 posts

If anyone comments on the wobbly lines, tell them the engine was needed on the line, so the artist kept working through an air-raid!  :-)

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

gowest

892 posts

Hi 2e0dtoeric

funny you should say that but there have been times when I have sat at our round kitchen table trying to set out these transfers and her who must be obayed sitting opposite reading her magazine learns on the table every 5 minutes the table goes up and down it's like working on a table in the Titanic as it's going down or though she does say sorry did I jog the table? The answer I cannot put here as it would be removed but something like yes dear don't worry.

gowest

892 posts

Here you can see the top of the tender boiler and its white jacket this was a section of silicon sheet rubber

1/2 mm thick to help keep the heat in the boiler and away from the tender body and its paint work.

I have covered how I make the tender coal cover before on other loco rebuilds but to complete this part of the build will go over it quickly once more and for those that may not have seen it.This idea could be used for coal wagons or sand may be.

Starting with the tender body I rolled up some foil to fill the gap between the tender boiler and the end of the coal area.

Then cut some foil to cover the tender boiler  pushing it well down all the sides and pressing around the filler screw and safety valve in the top of the boiler.

Once the foil was in place and covered all the area well I painted some oil around the top section of the tender body inside and out with a strip about 4 mm to prevent the fibre glass from sticking. Next crunch up the coal into very small bits that will look the right scale.

Now mix up the fibre glass enough to cover the foil and while still wet push the small bits of coal into the fibre glass compound. 

Leave to set for the required time then remove the tender body from the boiler and chassis and from the inside of the body push the coal out of the body.

Clean up the edges with sand paper or a file to make it an easy fit in the body and remove any unwanted coal.

Any of the fibre glass showing can be painted black to make it all blend in it might be that you have some loose bits of coal that keep falling off to over come this drip some superglue over the coal it will run down and make it a much more solid a job.

 

It looks a good load of coal they have picked up and it fits very snugly.

 I still have the air tanks to make and fit and then we will be at the end of the job and have one of the most powerful steam engines to run in Great Britain in its day what a shame that only one was saved of the class. 

I will take some video and post it in time so lets hope it still runs ok. 

RAF96

10149 posts


Community Moderator

Superb Ken

Rob

Halton Brat - Running Win 10, 64-bit - RM (Pro-Pack) with Elite as Controller-A, Select as Walkabout and E-Link as Controller-B - Locos are mostly TTS. http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page21.html

PlanesTV

47 posts

Visitors to the OO Live Steam Roadshow would be overjoyed to see your magnificent models running there Ken.

 

It's just a shame you live so far away from ECML - most Roadshows tend to be in the east of England. Not by design.

 

What's the best big show near you? Maybe we can get an invitation?

gowest

892 posts

Now with all tests complete the basic engine runs very well in fact it’s a joy to drive and it can be seen here on youtube steaming round my small track.The new boiler that fitted the coal space better and increased the water capacity on tests gave 40 minutes run time which is 10 minutes longer than the A3 and A4 engines which is great as Mr Maunsell wanted to design an engine that would travel a long way before it would need to stop for water and even with this model he can be proud of his design as I wanted my engine to achieve the same performance in distance and it has so have a look at Sir Frances Drake just click on the link below.

https://youtu.be/Qd5NrZkx2qQ

Please create an account or login to reply.

Forum Rules

  • The Hornby Forum is intended for discussion of all things model railways. Primarily a place for newcomers to ask questions and seek assistance from like-minded individuals, the Hornby Forum offers a user community for all those interested in railways.
  • Discussion of non-Hornby brands is allowed, however, active promotion or advertising of these brands is not permitted.
  • Please keep in mind that the Hornby Forum is a publicly viewable space and you should never post personal information (including email addresses). 
  • While every effort is made to contact you before any censorship, we reserve the right to amend or remove any content without explanation.
  • All customer service enquiries should be directed to Hornby Customer Services.

Useful Links

Forum Guidelines

Membership Restricted Product