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SFew questions from a newcomer

Decom

6 posts

I've done my best to research these but i have yet to have my questions answered so I thought here would be the best place. I used to have quite a substantial hornby train set about ten years ago and still have some left over (regretably in my teenage years I sold it) and thought i'd get back into it and i have enough track and Locos to just spruce it up by buying a single train set. I would like to use analog since my current equiptment is analog, this is where my questions come in.

 The only power clips/ track I have is power track at the moment, I can't tell if it's digital or analog. Common sense tells me that it is analog since I only bought analog train sets but my memory isn't too good. I heard using digital eqiptment on analog trains can be bad. However I'm not sure if that applys to power track. If it were digital would it potentially damage my ten year old analog Locos?

 My second question is, is the "Standard Model Train Controller (R8250) with mains power supply" analog or Digital? it will come in the train set I'm buying. While the train will be DCC ready, can I use ten year old analog Locos on that remote? 

walkingthedog

19345 posts

DCC Ready isn’t DCC. It means it has a socket for a DCC decoder. DCC locos can be run on DC layout, but DC locos mustn’t be run on a DCC layout. 

You need a DCC controller and locos fitted with decoders to run DCC Locos. But as I said, you can run DCC locos on DC, but sound, switchable lights etc. won’t work, they just become ordinary DC locos. 

Somebody will be along shortly to give you a much much longer reply.

WTD ........... Nurse, the screens.

jane2

156 posts

hi decom 

the difference between the two power clips is the dcc does not have a capacitor in it.

using analogue loco's on dcc is to be avoided ,the motors can burn out quickly.

the 8250 is an analogue controller

atom3624

1141 posts

I'll let the DCC guys answer your questions relating to the track - basically it should be fine, but DO NOT leave analogue locos on a live track.

 

Older track is probably steel, which whilst it helped the old magnadhesion, it rusts, and nobody likes it any more - all prefer nickel silver track produced today.

 

If you have an R8250 coming, it's great with a little 0-4-0 tank engine, like Percy for example, but little else - it will soon have a thermal shutdown. This is temporary, but will definitely happen with older locomotives, which will draw more current than the modern ones do.

 

There's probably an average of 2 threads per month solely related to the wheezy R8250 power supply / controller - I suggest you search these out - possibly easier via Google.

 

Hope that answers some of your questions.

 

BTW - A BIG WELCOME to the forum - it's generally very friendly, depending on where we are with snow and Brexit!!

 

Al.

RAF96

10995 posts


Community Moderator

Have a read of Chris’s geeting started  guide posted as a sticky at the top of the General section of this forum. It will give you more than enough guidance.

Rob

Halton Brat - Running Win 10, 64-bit - RM (Pro-Pack) with Elite as Controller-A, Select as Walkabout and E-Link as Controller-B - Locos are mostly TTS. http://www.halton96th.org.uk/page21.html

SRmike

93 posts

The standard model train controller is dc. The age of the set would suggest it is dc. Only use this with newer trains that are DCC ready not DCC fitted as you can damage the DCC chip and that will be expensive to sort.

what locos do you have?

if I was starting out again I would go DCC and scrap the train controller you have and buy a DCC system. The locos you have will need to be converted although if any are 0-4-0 then it will not be worth it.

walkingthedog

19345 posts

 

''Only use this with newer trains that are DCC ready not DCC fitted as you can damage the DCC chip and that will be expensive to sort."

 

SRmike the above statement is not true, you will not damage a DCC fitted loco on a DC layout. I have several and they run beautifully. 

WTD ........... Nurse, the screens.

Ericm0hff

6293 posts

As WTD put, you CAN run a DCC fitted loco on a dc track, but the various sounds and functions won't work.

You can NOT put a dc loco on a DCC track, the motor will fry in seconds.

The 'standard' controller you mention is a feeble thing that will not run older loco's for very long, before it overheat and turns itself off until it cools down again.

The power clip/track - the dc one has a capacitor in it, put there to help reduce tv interference, which is not really relevent these days anyway! For a DCC track, this needs to be removed, as it interferes with the digital info sent by the controller, causing all sorts of weird things to happen.

Older loco's may not run very well on modern track. The wheels had larger flanges, which will cause problems on points and crossings, if you have any. Trucks and coaches are 'usually' fairly easy to re-wheel, it depends if they are 'through-the-hole' or pin-point axles,but loco's can be difficult, needing some knowledge, and setting up again. 'New' trains will run on older track.

As said - old track was usually steel (looks grey in colour, and magnets stick to it), but it can rust, and once it has rusted, you are wasting your time trying to 'rescue' it. Nickel-silver track won't rust, magnets won't stick, and it looks shiny.

-

Some people have TWO layouts, one with older track for the older trains, and another with modern track, for the newer items.

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Decom

6 posts

@atom3624

I'll let the DCC guys answer your questions relating to the track - basically it should be fine, but DO NOT leave analogue locos on a live track.

 

Older track is probably steel, which whilst it helped the old magnadhesion, it rusts, and nobody likes it any more - all prefer nickel silver track produced today.

 

If you have an R8250 coming, it's great with a little 0-4-0 tank engine, like Percy for example, but little else - it will soon have a thermal shutdown. This is temporary, but will definitely happen with older locomotives, which will draw more current than the modern ones do.

 

There's probably an average of 2 threads per month solely related to the wheezy R8250 power supply / controller - I suggest you search these out - possibly easier via Google.

 

Hope that answers some of your questions.

 

BTW - A BIG WELCOME to the forum - it's generally very friendly, depending on where we are with snow and Brexit!!

 

Al.

 Hi thanks for your reply! I have a few questions about what you said.

What do you mean by "do not leave analogue Locos on live track"? 

 Also my track is oldest 2005, probably got it a few years after (I bought all my stuff new), I thought that the nickel/silver track started being used in the 90s? I'm assuming then my track should be fine although I'm not expert so do correct me if I'm wrong. 

 

walkingthedog

19345 posts

Do not leave analogue locos on a DCC layout. There is power to the track at all times with DCC. This will fry the motor. It does not affect DCC loco for obvious reasons. They are fitted with decoders that need the continuous power supply to work. 

WTD ........... Nurse, the screens.

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