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Signature: AJ Meyenn

Bio: a retired teacher, academic, IT consultant, still lecture at Uni as a casual lecturer (always have been!) Took up trains by buying some on ebay pulled them apart and put them back together, used this forum and youtube. Main trains are the old Queen Elizabeth and recently Princess Royal.

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3 posts

Thanks Sarah.

In theory, one could dispense with the capacitor.

Run a wire X from the pick plate to the positive brush.

Run a wire off X using the eyelet to screw onto the block where the capacitor wire connected to.

Good experiment, I'll let you know how it goes if it does that is!

Andrew Meyenn.

AJ Meyenn


3 posts

 Hi Sarah,

Many thanks, I have read through and have seen the service sheets previously.

This link http://www.hornby-railway-trains.co.uk/Parts/Hornby_Motors/Wiring_kit_for_X03_X04_Motor/Wiring_kit_for_X03_X04_Motor.htm

covers the issue, I have written to the supplier but no response.

I will create some pictures, but can you decipher what they mean in terms of "One wire is approx. 70mm (2 3/4") long and is fitted with a new eyelet to fit under the nut for the screw. The other wire is approx. 90mm (3 1/2") long and is fitted with a new pin to contact to the motor brush."

I take it the 3 1/2 inch wire runs from the pickup plate to the brush with the insulator. The positive.

The 2 3/4 inch wire seems to be soldered to the engine block and then runs to the screw on the block ie where the capacitor was connected. Hence is negative.

Does that make sense to you?

Kind regards Andrew Meyenn

AJ Meyenn


3 posts

Hi, Hope I have the correct group. I have two old Queen Elizabeth Triang, not sure the precise date of either. Both motors are fine, run with 9v battery and wires I connect using blu tac on the battery. However, on the track one goes slowly and the other not at all.

I have the original style wiring on one, which will run slowly on the track.

I have replaced the cap/suppressor on the other with the new version but it will not run - my soldering is ok.

Both sets of wires show good continuity and I have cleaned both trains as well, wheels and pickups, and pickup plates.

The brushes seem ok, the commutator has also been cleaned.

I would like advice on two things:

(a) I have noticed that the insulator is on different sides of the motors, does this matter? Or, does it mean the magnet is orientated differently on both? The insulator ought to be on the positive, I am sure I am getting it to work the other way round on the train that does not run on the track? 

(b) I have read there is a new upgrade to the wiring to dispense with the capacitor/suppressor

Do I have the following correct?

Run a lead from the pickup plate direct to the positive brush and solder direct or use clip.

Run the negative lead from where ? the earth screw the capacitor was connected onto? and then run to the back of the motor and solder.

Any advice welcome, hope I have expressed my issue with sufficient detail.

regards Andrew Meyenn (Melbourne Australia)



AJ Meyenn

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