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ColinB

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ColinB

1613 posts

My Hornby R2171 Canadian Pacific had the original price still on it, it was £71.50. I cannot remember when I bought it, I know it came from the Signal Box in Rochester (sadly gone), I preordered it because I liked the colour. I checked EBay and I remember there was one for sale in the North York Moors Engine Shed shop (I was on holiday), and all of them were around the £100 mark, because I remembered thinking that is a lot of money for an old loco, that is not even DCC ready. What is it about these and the unrebuilt ones that makes them fetch so much money? It is the same with Wrenn, if it is a City loco it is worth around the £100 mark, but if it is a unrebuilt West Country it can be as much as £400.

ColinB

1613 posts

Response to @RAF96. Yes I initially tried that when I could only source the slighly larger microswitches and it worked OK. It was that you need to attach the switch to the board with really small screws, plus my layout is on fibre board (bought years ago), so making them stay in position was an issue. I could have mounted them on a piece of thin plate and then used larger screws to attach it to the board, but then you have got to disguise them. That is why I prefer them under the board. I initially used superglue to glue them to the point, but you only get one chance to get the throw right. For most of the point switches on my layout, that was the method I used. That is why I looked into this new method. For any new points I will use the new switch holders, they are easier to fit. I did look at doing it electronically, but it meant attaching too many wires to the point. 

ColinB

1613 posts

I used one of those cheap ones from EBay in my Bachmann Electrical Multiple Unit. In fact I have them in a few of my locos, the 8 pin ones seem a bit more "flaky". They all seem to work OK. I must admit I just want to loco to work with DCC, I am not into changing inertia curves etc.The 21 pin decoders seem to be a lot more robust than the 8 pin, because the way they connect to the loco is much better and better designed. With the 8 bin, with all the "flylng leads" it is much easier to short things out, plus a lot of times the supplier insulates the module but leaves two nice rows of tops of pins on the connector, to touch something they shouldn't.

ColinB

1613 posts

Reply to atom3624. I have got one of those Hornby R2171 Canadian Pacific, if it is the one I think it is. I bought it from new, years ago. I have only just got back into the hobby since I retired. I have just checked on EBay they go for stupid money. I found with mine, that it wasn't DC ready and there is no room in the loco, so I put a socket in the tender using Hornby 4 pin spare parts. I added the Hornby sound decoder and it runs really well. I did replace the tender coupling with a fixed drawbar. You probably know that you cannot easily get replacement valve gear. 

ColinB

1613 posts

Just bought a brand new green class 37 with split headcodes Bachmann diesel. I initially baulked at the price, but then when I saw what they went for second hand, I bought one with sound fitted. When I added up how much the loco would have cost without sound and then added on the cost of a decent sound chip, the already fitted option makes sense (it saves about £20). I must admit it is really good, although I normally don't spent that much on a loco.

ColinB

1613 posts

Response to @Chrisaf. I can confirm I get no financial benifit from this product. I just got fed up with what was available from the normal suppliers and asked if someone could provide something that was better. I would like the supplier to sell a lot of these purely, because he put the effort in to make a better product. I think they are brilliant, but I leave that for others to judge. I just thought I would highlight what I thought was a good product. We did think about using the DPDT type, but you can achieve this with a relay easily. Just to clarify, it was my idea, but I do not make them or sell them, or receive any royalties from them. I just thought perhaps our hobby should progress out of the 1950's (slider switches) and fortunately I found a like minded individual that wanted to achieve the same.

At the moment the hole cover is not listed, he made me a batch ( which I paid for), so if there is enough interest I am sure he will do the same. These are also very good.

ColinB

1613 posts

Yes, that is what I do if I want more contacts. I found you can get a relay board off that popular auction website, for less than I can buy the relay for. Admitadly, it comes from China, so you have to wait a bit, but they are well made. Someone in the UK sells one that is quite reasonable as well. I tried the Seep points, but found that they were a pain to set up. I like the Peco PL10 as you check the motor with the point, before you fit it, the only issue is you have to cut that big hole in the baseboard, but if you buy the covers, then that is not a big issue. The advantage, is if the point breaks you can remove the point motor and switch in one go. The other thing is I hate slider switches, they are always suspect on reliabilty. The Seep ones are better than the Peco PL13, as they are part of the point. 

ColinB

1613 posts

I don't know if anyone else has the same issue, but I use a lot of point motor switches. I use these to create isolating sections on the electrofrog points, so if the point is in the wrong direction and the loco approaches it then the loco stops.They could be used for switching on led signals. Anyway, I got fed up with the versions available. I use PL10 point motors directly under the point, I find this is the most reliable setup. So I normally place the point switch underneath it. Firstly, I found that the cheaper ones made by Peco were a bit unreliable, and put excessive load on the motor. The newer type was far too big, and meant you had to put them on underneath the baseboard. So I talked to someone on the web, to see if they could make a bracket that clipped onto the PL10 to hold a commercial microswitch available from that famous auction website. After a couple of attempts he has made a really good product that is available on the same auction website. I think they are brilliant. He also makes covers that hide that big hole you cut for the motor beneath the point. As I am not allowed to advertise on this site, I leave it to you to find them, I think they are brilliant, neater and really easy to fit, no glueing required. He supplies the bracket and the microswitch. I will add I have no financial interest in this product, I just wanted something that was better than what was comercially available.

ColinB

1613 posts

Having a 5 amp suplly rather than 4 amp is not an issue, the power regulator inside the Elite will sort that out. It wll normally have a regulater to regulate down to 5 volts or 3.3 volts for all the logic.  Having not enough current is normally the big issue. The bigger issue is the polarity of the connector and the correct voltage. If these are correct, then I see no reason why you cannot use one. No need for a fuse, the laptop supply should have some current limit capacity. I use them all the time for lots of things, be wary of the really cheap ones from China.

ColinB

1613 posts

Hello Sir John,

                Thank you for the advice. I emailed Bachmann and they replied within a couple of hours, with a price and how to get them. That is what I call a good service, a certain other firm usually takes over a week.

Thanks.

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