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ColinB

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ColinB

1482 posts

It isn't you just have to be careful. As I say getting the tender top is usually the most difficult bit. Just take your time and don't be in a rush. Just make sure the decoder is insulated, there is a lot of metal in the tender for it to short out against. Oh, and buy one of those tools for removing the 4 pin lead. If you are going to take the tender apart it is a good idea to separate it from the loco, to avoid one of those 4 pin wires breaking.

ColinB

1482 posts

 I tried the Peco diamond crossing. They suffer from the same issue, too much plastic in the frog, even the ones Chrissaf uses, on the newer code 75 track they did improve it, but that is no use to people using normal track. As someone has mentioned either two points back to back, or if you go the Peco way a double slip, but I don't think that will fit in with you existing track. I used to have them on my layout but got fed up with locos stalling on them.

ColinB

1482 posts

It is not a basic question. Anway on this model the DCC decoder is in the tender. So you read the maintenance manual that comes with the loco and it will tell you how to get the tender body off. I did mine but I can't remember if it is one screw or two. Normally you unscrew the screws (you will need a small philips/posidrive head screwdriver) and pull the tender top either forwards or backwards (again in the instructions). Once the tender lid is off at the back of the tender you will see a rectangular socket with 8 pins. Into this there will be an 8 pin header, bit like in your PC, if you have ever opened it. Remove this header, and put the decoder header in its place. The decoder should have something to indicate pin 1, as will the socket, so make sure pin 1 goes to pin 1.If it is a Hornby decoder you will need to insulate the decoder by placing it in a bit of heat shrink, or a plastic sleeve of some kind, if you use some other manufacturer it should come ready sleeved. Now just put the tender back together and you are done. It usually takes longer to get the tender lid off without damaging it, than fitting the decoder.

I forgot to mention, you need an 8 pin decoder.

ColinB

1482 posts

But he didn't help. As for threading a fine line, I find that very amusing. He asks a question on whether a certain decoder doesn't perform very well and instantly gets a torrant of abuse. When he responds he gets further abuse from the "mates club". You lot ought to read your responses a bit more carefully. I will leave the subject at that before I sound just like you. The car analogy was completely wrong, he was not complaining just asking advice. I keep hearing about long standing members, that has no relevance at all, there are certain long standing members that come up with factural help, they are useful. As has been noticed by the more sensible responses there are people that use that device on this forum, so to me it was a valid question and as I said before it filled in the gaps with my experience with this device.

ColinB

1482 posts

There should be a little bag with two couplings in. Mine definitely had them. I will probably replace them with them chain, but they should be there.

ColinB

1482 posts

Yes mine arrived this afternoon. Yes, it is very nice.

ColinB

1482 posts

Pullmans have a different circuit. According to your last photo I saw, bridge rectifier, feeding capacitor with 5 volt regulator, so the lights remain at a constant level no matter the voltage (as long as it is above say 9 volt, about 2 volts across rectifier, 2 volts across regulator).Plus Pullmans don't have directional lighting for DC.

Fishmanoz summed it up exactly.

ColinB

1482 posts

I usually run mine with 4 coaches without any issue.

ColinB

1482 posts

I bought the limited edition one and that definitely has a different tender as you mount the sound loudspeaker and TTS decoder in it, which you wouldn't be able to do if was the old ringfield type. Are you sure you are not getting mixed up with a Railroad version?

ColinB

1482 posts

Yes, you are absolutely right but they rely on diodes to do it, which is great on DC but on DCC they will probably switch the headlights on when you are going backwards, which is exactly what I said. Possibly they might flash on and off, I don't know. What I do know is that Hornby fitted that socket for a reason so they must think the same as me. This is effectively the same as a Pendolino or a Javelin, in both cases I have fitted a really cheap decoder to the dummy end which again is what I recommended.

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