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Rana Temporia

Signature: Col

Bio: INterests include Tr-ang and Jouef/Playcraft models,

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Rana Temporia

274 posts

As mentioned above, if you can source some of the later bogies with the mark 3 couplings it should be easy to replace the metal couplings with Playcraft/Dapol plastic versions. You might have to drill and tap to do it though. Here is a later version of the black model and you can see the bogies on it and how they differ to yours. Yours will have (should have) plastic cow catchers around the earlier couplings while the later version has smaller ones moulded onto the bogies. The front one is easier to find as stated above, it is exactly the same as the ‘Hiawatha’ loco. The rear one is the same bogie moulding but with a different pivot bracket. These are very rare but I do occasionally come across scrap locos or chassis that have them on, usually without wheels which isn’t a problem a s they are the same as many other Tri-ang locos. This loco also has one of the later stable plastic bodies so ahsn’t warped or split. It also has metal safety valves, one of the easy ways to Tell if it’s a later version. It still has the screw down the chimney though. I think only the red one has it in the front of the smoke box for the later chassis. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

I have three of the trackmaster locos, two of which have perfectly operating mechanisms, they don’t run for very long though! The problem with all 3 is that the wheels fall off. They seem to have been fixed to the axles with a white resin type compound which has degraded to powder over the years. If it was just one of them I’d think it was a bodged repair but it is all 3 and they didn’t come from the same source. I might try araldite 

Also, all the rods on the locos are broken, I will need to manufacture some to get them running properly again. 

When repairing clockwork locos i use sewing machine oil which has got some jammed up mechanisms running perfectly for me. Any links to articles on repairing the trackmaster/Tri-ang N2s would be welcome. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

I have an unfortunate story which connects to this thread. While at a swap meet some years ago I got talking to a chap who had just sold a large box of Hornby Dublo equipment to a stall. he had waited years to start a model railway, collecting the bits he wanted and storing it away. finally in his 70s (I can’t remember his exact age) he has bought a shed and built his dream railway, only to have some one break in shortly after and smash it all up. He said that he didn’t think they’d stolen anything but totally dishartened he had put everything moveable in a box and sold it off. I suspect this is something the Police wouldn’t even consider looking into. Also, as mentioned above many people are now going around with a weapon. They know there is no-one to catch them unless they venture into certain well connected areas so no deterrent. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

As already mentioned though, if the insulated wheels are all on the same side and the chassis are all of the Tri-ang type and they all run the same way when current is applied it shouldn’t be necessary. 

I have another question, probably for Margate Richmond or Sarahagain. I have several of these locos but they are all black and for around a year now I have been intending repainting one maroon. It had a very badly damaged body and has now been repaired so needs a repaint anyway so I’m not devaluing a pristine model or anything like that! Assuming Tri-ang stuck to their usual practice of making a batch of locos from the same plastic and the fact that this loco was only in production for a short time does anyone know which red plastic they used? I‘m presuming only one batch of maroon bodies was made in the UK. I think the Australian ones were painted maroon. I have never been able to compare side by side but I assume it was the same as The Princess Royal rather than the bright red of Polly? If anyone knows please let me know and I can take a sample loco to my local model shop to match it up. 

The only prototype photos I have seen are black and green but I have never seen or heard of a green one made anywhere in the world. I have seen re-paints though. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

I am also one of the people who would buy it if cheap enough with the intention of restoring it and selling it on. Unfortunately I never seem to actually get round to selling them on! I probably have all the missing parts in my spares box apart from the body. I bought a box of ‘junk’ once for next to nothing that had parts off 4 of this type of chassis. 

If you decide to restore there are at least 2 variants, one with the screw down the chimney and one with a screw in the footplate in front of the smoke box and some of the parts aren’t interchangeable. Make sure you have the right service sheet for parts numbers. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

Not sure what the Dapol motor is like but if you turn the magnet over on an X04 or Jouef equivalent the direction it travels in reverses. Might be worth trying after following the advice above and seeking which one goes the ‘right’ way. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

Excellent advice and should be used by people to practice, that’s the only way to learn! And don’t do what i did when i was learning to solder (by fixing a 4x12” guitar speaker cab) and put the iron where it can fall over and burn a hole in the carpet. That really didn’t go down well! I did eventually move on to making my own guitar effects pedals but that’s another story.

There was a good Babani book on learning to solder which was available from Maplin but is probably available on the internet cheaply from the usual websites. Babani also made at least one book on constructing electronic model railway accessories but as with many of their project books many of the components are increasingly difficult to source as they have not been made for years  and a modern equivalent may be difficult to find. Most electronic equipment is now surface mount and the old ‘through hole’ technology with discrete components isn’t realily catered for in the way it used to be. Many manufactureres have stopped production.

I have managed to get a supply of NOS tin/lead solder which works much better than the modern product. I know it’s not permitted in products to be sold anymore but it does make a huge difference. The flux pens referred to also help as hey are designed for electronic use and won’t corrode your wire or solder pads like some aggressive fluxes will. 

I have only tried tosolder white metal once, never again!

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

Nothing like Alan’s masterpiece but here is the photo of the Playcraft/Jouef steel loading plant which could form pat of your steel mill. Not a very good photo but you should be blue to make it out. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

Playcraft/Jouef/Pola etc. Used to do a steel loading point kit with an overhead gantry crane which I keep seeing for sale on eBay. It was HO but that shouldn’t matter. I’ll see if I can put a picture up later. 

Col

Rana Temporia

274 posts

Ellocoloco, the Green Transcontinental coaches are the rarest of them all. Don’t paint them, sell them and by a dozen or so blue or silver ones to paint instead. I think the green ones were only made for the (equally rare) green and orange or two tone green Transcontinental overhead locO which is the R159 With a different roof and moulded in green Plastic. 

Col

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