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Chrissaf

Signature: Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Bio: Retired, but spent my career working in IT and Electronics. So using a PC to control things is what rocks my boat.

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Chrissaf

12053 posts


There are a couple more clues in your original question text.

 

Your text infers that you installed the RailMaster software first, then connected the eLink controller [presumably to then install the driver for it].

 

The RailMaster installation and set up is less problematic if you connect the eLink and install the driver first, then install the RailMaster software with the eLink still connected and powered up. This way the RailMaster installer knows what controller to configure the software for.

 

You may have an incorrect 'railmaster.ini' file as a result.

 

To fix this:

 

Open the 'railmaster.INI' file using the RailMaster .INI file editor [bluish COG icon in the bottom left corner of the RailMaster 'Help Screen']. If the file has less than 10 lines in it, then it needs to be regenerated with a fresh one.

 

This previous thread describes the 'regeneration process'. Written for an Elite, but the eLink process is identical. Just substitute Elite with eLink in the descriptive text.

 

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/railmasterelite-interface/?p=1/#post-200252

 

Whether you regenerate the .INI file or not, follow the suggestions below anyway:

 

Note the eLink baud rate is 115200. Also as you have an eLink make 'Check controller' and 'Alternative comms' both =1

 

You also mentioned 'loosing communication' with the eLink. See this previous thread.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/railmastere-link-problems/?p=1

 

The above link was written pre-version 1.7x RailMaster software. So in addition to the .INI file values suggested in the link above, also ensure that the entry below is checked and amended if necessary.

 

Reset eLink on start=0 [if this entry is listed it will probably be =1, change it to =0].

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


What a pickle you seem to have got yourself into Peter.

 

It is best not to use the CD it is far better to use the downloaded installer from the link at the top of the Hornby RailMaster forum ... see image below for link location.

 

Also, when installing the 'drivers'. The 'drivers' on the CD are historical and only for Windows XP and Vista. The CD drivers are not used on Windows 7, 8 or 10

 

 

These forum resources may possibly help.

 

Installing Windows 7 to 10 eLink / Elite drivers is typically [but not always] a two stage process. Some users fail to complete stage 2 when it is required. The links below explain the full installation process.

 

Installing eLink with RM for the 1st time issues.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/installing-elink-with-rm-for-the-1st-time-issues/?p=1/#post-313903

 

Installing Windows 10 Drivers.

eLink

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/unable-to-install-elink-driver-on-new-windows-10-laptop-please-help/?p=7/#post-263375

 

 

RailMaster Help Site:

https://octaviancs.com/railmaster/rm.php

 

When the page above opens, look to the navigation tabs highlighted in the green box.

 

 

When reading the various site pages. If you see any icon like the one below. These are clickable and will open an image usually containing screen shots of what the text is describing.

 

 

If you did by any chance successfully activate the RM Key and then went and uninstalled RM without deactivating the key first then you may very well be up the proverbial creek without a paddle. But follow the guidance above first before trying to cross that creek bridge.

 

As well as not using the drivers on the CD for Windows 7, 8 and 10. You must also 'right click' the installer and choose 'Run as administrator'. Plus ANY pop messages that refer to security, you must choose the 'allow' option.

 

With regard the strange screen colours and screen image rendering you are reporting. This is possibly a bad interaction between RailMaster and your PC graphic card and/or graphic drivers. They might be old and outdated if they haven't been updated. I have a vague recollection of a post in the long distant past relating to screen rendering. The fix, if I recall correctly, was to choose a different colour theme from within RailMaster. See Page 30 & 31 of the RailMaster manual on themes. The selection is made on the 'Loco Detection' tab within the 'System Settings' screen.

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


Dallas, I have removed your two malformed reply attempts using the blue button where you never added any new text. Note... there is no 'Reply to this post' button embeded within each individual reply on this forum.

 

TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

 

See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


Am I correct in thinking...........I would have to cut the necessary wiring from the plug end of the decoder......

 

Not quite.

 

They way you have phrased your question, it infers that there is already [or you have fitted or intend to fit as part of a conversion] a socket into which the 8 pin decoder plug inserts.

 

It would be far better to add extra lighting wires to the socket pins so that you can keep the decoder plug intact. There is no point in having half the decoder connected via a plug and socket and the other half 'hard wired'.

 

This schematic shows the principle:

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


Cool

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


David,

When you reply....

 

TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

 

See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


Summary - you can only program the R8216 in Reg mode. Look up what each of the 8 registers are for.

 

Registers as documented in the NMRA standard.

 

Register 1 is the address register. I think valid addresses in this register might be limited to 001 to 127.

 

Register 8 is highlighted as this is the equivalent of CV8. Write a value of 8 to factory reset.

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


IMPORTANT ADDENDUM.

 

Forget my previous posts.

 

I have just looked at your videos again. Video 1 shows the wall transformer as the Hornby C912. THIS IS NOT THE CORRECT POWER SUPPLY UNIT FOR THE R7229.

 

The C912 is 16 volts AC [Alternating Current] output.

 

The correct power supply for the R7229 is the Hornby P9000 which is 19 volts DC [Direct Current]

 

As an analogy it is a bit like filling up your petrol car with diesel fuel. AC and DC are completely different.

 

The R7229 is still a cheap controller but it is not going to be achieving its best potential with the C912 AC supply.

 

This probably accounts for the small loco not running at all.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


If I was to recommend a controller, then I would be in breach of forum rules as I would have to suggest a non Hornby brand. I gave clues in my initial reply. For example I indicated that a quality new purchase controller would be in a £80 - £120 price range. This is the going rate for commercial controller products. I also indicated what to look for on the cheaper second-hand market.

 

Also would the R7229 controller also explain why my smaller train doesn't move at all?

 

I may be wrong, but the video would appear to show the small loco as being Hornby's absolute rock bottom cheapest throw away 0-4-0 loco used in some of the cheapest kiddies sets. If it is the basic set loco, then it will have a very basic motor in it. I am surprised that it didn't at least move with the R7229 controller at max setting. If it hadn't been for the wheels turning with the battery I would have suggested that the motor drive gear had locked up, but the spinning wheels with the battery somewhat discounts that.

 

As Rob says, please avoid the blue button. The blue button is not a reply to this post button. Please read my TIPs page I gave the link for in my first reply. There is no need to duplicate the previous reply directly above your own.

 

Thank you for your compliance on this matter.

 

PS ... I added more content to my original reply since your reply to it.

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

12053 posts


This very issue has been raised very recently. You haven't said but from your video you purchased the R7229.

 

This controller and the earlier R8250 controller are designed for modern low power low weight locomotives. They only have a maximum of 500mA of current output.

 

Given the age of your locos, they would benefit from a controller with a 1 amp output as the motors in the locos draw far more current than the modern locos.

 

The outputs  of the R7229 / R8250 controllers are not pure DC, they output a technology called PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). The PWM in these cheap Hornby controllers operate at a low frequency and indeed do make some locos buzz when starting off and needing the knob turned up to get enough current flowing to move these old motors.

 

So the bottom line is that what you have observed is totally 100% normal for these particular PWM controllers when used with aged locos. Undesirable, but normal to expect. Somewhat borne out and confirmed in your video as the battery outputs pure DC and not PWM.

 

What is PWM? ... click this link and look at the fifth post down.

 

Note: I called the R7229 / R8250 cheap controllers. Some might consider that about £40 is not cheap. But this is a half to a third the price of a quality controller. These controllers were designed to slip into a 'Train Set' box just to give something to use by a child receiving a 'Set' as a present. They are not meant [in my opinion] to be serious layout controllers.

 

Further posts on this topic thread made by others will probably promote looking for H&M Clippers and Duettes on the eBay second-hand market. This is the solution that most members post when the same question as yours gets asked.

 

TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

 

See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

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