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Chrissaf

Signature: Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Bio: Retired, but spent my career working in IT and Electronics. So using a PC to control things is what rocks my boat.

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Chrissaf

11838 posts


I'm really surprised that nobody has come back to you yet. I'm afraid I don't have either TTS or Select, but searching the forum on your behalf for an answer I found many entries that stated that the Master Volume on a TTS model is typically controlled by CV178. The values that can be configured are 0 sound off, 1 sound low........to 4 sound maximum (which is the default). Your loco should have come with a data sheet and you should find reference to CV178 in it. Apparently, as far as I can tell, other CVs control individual sound effect volume levels.

 

Note the following though. In my search I also found reference to the 'Select' controller not supporting all the TTS sound functions. There may also be an issue in the ability of the 'Select' to actually write to CV178 to change the volume because the 'Select' is a really low function cut down controller  version compared to Elite and e-link. Someone else who knows more about the select will need to advise on this in regard to writing and reading CV limitations.

 

I have just had a look at the download version of the 'Select' manual and cannot find any reference in it to reading and writing CV values. This would, unfortunately, seem to indicate that your volume is going to be fixed at the default value unless you either buy or borrow a better more functional controller.

 

To search the forum for yourself to find the references I found. Put TTS in the "search forums" box at the top of this page, click the green magnifying glass, wait for the results to be returned, then click the big read box tilted 'Search by Posts Content'. This will return all posts on the forum containing "TTS". You can then do similar searches using the same technique for other search terms such as "volume" "sound" "select" etc. Unfortunately, the search function is not very intelligent on this forum, it is best to search for single words. This inevitably means that commonly used words will return lots of entries.

 

In the meantime, maybe someone else will come back to you with a more definitive specific answer.

 

EDIT - once again Fishmanoz beats me to it as I was typing........he has just confirmed in a couple of sentences what I wrote in a page.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


Mike,

Let me add my apology to your thread being side tracked by forum politics. Any news on the issue, is it resolved?

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


Personally, I would try to reserve as much DCC current as possible for running locos. Using the DCC signal sparingly for other functions. If you are optocoupling the DCC signal into the Arduino micro-processor, then I don't see any reason why you shouldn't power the Arduino and servos from a dedicated supply that is fit for purpose.

 

I use these for 5v up to 150mA current:

http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/156892_da_en_01.pdf

or these for 5v up to 1Amp (there is a 6v version in the range if you prefer for servos).

http://www.rapidonline.com/pdf/47-3290e.pdf

 

If you do use the DCC supply, bridge rectify the DCC signal first before connecting to above. But personally (as I stated earlier) I would use a separate power supply, not the DCC signal to provide the servo voltage / current. Servos contain electric motors and electric motors are electrically noisy. I would recommend as much electrical separation as possible between the servo and the DCC signal.

 

The  5v 150mA regulator combined with a bridge rectifier I have used via the DCC signal to provide 5v supply for coach lighting. The 5v 1Amp regulator version I have used for a 2 x 4 servo board (total 8 servos), but in this instance dropping down from a dedicated 12 volt DC supply not the DCC signal. The 12v supply runs my micro-processor control board, with the derived 5v rail from the regulator being used to drive the servos because as you are obviously aware, the servos operate on a typical max voltage of 6v.

 

Out of curiosity, I find it strange that you are asking this question about simple power regulation circuits, when you seem to have a working knowledge of Arduino and interfacing it to DCC, and presumably writing your own software code to make the Arduino function as a DCC decoder.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


Captain,

 

Just one further point to consider. Crossovers!!!

 

If your planned layout includes crossovers. I don't mean crossovers where you place two points back to back. I mean track crossovers that are an elongated X shape. Again, there are Peco electrofrog and insulfrog versions of these. Unfortunately and for some inexplicable reason, Peco do not do an electrofrog version crossover in Code 100 only Code 75 rail. Thus, Code 100 crossovers are ALL insulfrog. This is a very minor point, but worth noting.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


As long as the Peco track you buy is Code 100, it should be totally compatible with the Majestic Hornby track you already have and you can mix and match it with Peco Code 100. The 100 / 75 Coding relates to the size of the rail. The height of the rail is measured in 1000ths of an inch. Code 100 is 100/1000ths of an inch or put another way 1/10th of an inch. Code 75 is 75/1000ths of an inch, thus Code 75 track is slightly lower than Code 100 and Hornby track. You can get Peco transition track pieces to convert from one to the other, but it makes sense to keep the track sizes consistent if you can, so standardise on Code 100.

 

Peco do two types of track, 'Set Track' pieces that are Code 100 and provide fixed curves and fixed straight lengths etc. Peco 'Set Track' part numbers start with ST. These are virtually identical to Hornby track pieces. There are NO electrofrog points that start with the ST part number code.

 

And Flexitrack SL-100, each length is 36 inches and Code 100.  Peco Code 100 electrofrog points all have a SL-E** two numerical digit code as stated in a previous reply. In general SL-100 Flexitrack is a significant cost saving compared to 'Set Track' curves and straights and it has less joints to contend with. The downside is that it takes a little bit more effort to lay and fix. I would recommend buying a pair of Xuron track cutters if laying Peco Flexitrack.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


This was something I knocked up out of a few bits of timber, hinges and foam offcuts to work under the layout. As you can see it folds flat for storage.

 

 

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


OK Fishmanoz. First of all let me say I thought your comment was fair and balanced, and as I said before I don't particularly want to get into a long debate about this, but just to explain the rationale of my comment a little deeper for your particular benefit, in particular the line "Personally I would treat this with caution and only do it as last resort." The way in which this fix is presented in the locked thread gives, in my opinion, the impression to a novice that this is something that they MUST do, regardless of circumstances, that it is not an optional thing to do. To remove all of ones existing AV products and replace them is a drastic step to take. There is nothing wrong in doing that in principle, if it solves the problem. But my view is that this should be undertaken only when ALL other avenues have been explored first and discounted as not solving the problem. AC gives the impression that he has an issue with commercial paid for AV products, and as I clearly concurred in the post I agreed with regard to McAfee and Norton. I myself have been a victim of both these products and would not advise anybody using them. I replaced both these products on my own machines with a little known (paid for by subscription) AV product that is excellent and gives me absolutely no problems whatsoever across 4 different PC platforms with a wide range of applications, including RM.

 

So taking the two bits of bold text above and relating them to my original comment: The first line of bold text relates to my use of "treat this with caution". The second line of bold text relates to my use of "only do as last resort".

 

I trust that this clarifies my comment to your satisfaction. I think you will see, I am not a million miles away from AC's views, I'm just more cautious.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


I stand corrected.

 

I was commenting on a friends experience. But my last paragraph must be true. There can't be many PC's out there that support dual path audio in hardware as standard. I'm thinking laptops here.

 

@HRMS

Any chance (for the benefit of others) you could state what the spoken command parameter .INI modification is to redirect command audio to headet. I have just looked at the .INI section in v1.57 manual and can find no mention of it. The only .INI reference I can find is:

Spoken confirmation=0 0=Plays a ding, 1=says “confirmed” in Voice Control (Pro-Pack)

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


Somebody I know who uses Pro-Pack mentioned a limitation relating to 'voice commands'. If you wear a microphone / headset for voice commands. Any programmed 'announcements' that you might have triggered also play through the headset. In other words, RM can't send voice command confirmations to the user headset in isolation and all other within program sounds to the external speakers, for example station announcements. And of course conversely, if you have just the microphone for input and speakers for output, all the voice command confirmations will play out over the speakers, perhaps distracting from the general ambience of playing trains.

 

This of course, is perhaps more a limitation of PC hardware, as most PCs, particularly laptops have only a single sound output jack. To separate the audio streams you would need two separate physical audio paths.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

Chrissaf

11838 posts


OK guys.....very funny.

 

I'm trying to ask a serious question here....as I think one of you have said before "a picture saves a thousand words". There are times when replying, you feel a drawing will help, but you're put off by the moderation delay. Thus you then carry on writing text in order to get an answer quickly to a poster. I know it can be done, as I have seen 'trusted status' being used on other sites. Do you not think it would be nice if the regular contributors on here could be trusted to post their own drawings without delay. I'm thinking weekends here and out of hours.

 

Trusted status would have to be earned through consistently demonstrating compliance to the forum rules and would be rescinded if abused.

Chris........ Making the wood in the trees visible.

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