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Margate-Richmond

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I think Jimmy means the former Peak forrest mainline route from Manchester via Matlock and Buxton.  A bit has been rebuilt as Peak Rail by preservationists and exists as the Monsal Trail.

I agree, wouldn't worry too much, add some scatter and flock to cover the area.

E is British Railways Eastern Region and W is British Railways Western Region in the case of your coaches.  The E prefix has been used for Engineers department as well for engineering wagons and stock.

The single wheelers mimic the real thing in terms of haulage, the single wheelers were limited for what they could haul as a rule.  The Tri-ang/Tri-ang-Hornby/1970's Hornby  X.05 powered version is the most powerful verson, but the motor needs to be in good fettle and run on steel track for the magnadeshion traction magnets to work.  It does indeed sound like the tyres are worn on your Hornby China loco, bullfrog snot is good stuff but is a bodge and isn't a long term repair.

Welcome to the forum. It might be worth getting a good track plans book and forgetting the beginners track mat. There are some great small layout plans in the track plans books out there. If you can I would ditch any first radius curves such as R.604 and R.605 as a lot of the big super detail main range locos made today need 2nd radius or greater to run on, if you can't due to space constraints then most Railroad and older UK made models will run on them.

Please could you pass it my way WTD when you have finished with it, I can't afford it as some big bills in.

The tender drive unit for UK made R.066 Duchess of Sutherland, also applies for Duchess of Abercorn.

 

Service sheet for UK Made Duchess of Sutherland and Abercorn.

 

The sparking will be from the contact for the lighting, it runs on the top of a front driving wheel, the other feed coming from the live chassis.  The bulb will flicker as the loco moves along due to rail contact, motor, emf, etc.  It's a very realistic effect as full sized oil lamps flicker when lit and a loco is moving.

If you want to run the loco for a long period of time I would replace the bulb with an LED and a small bridge rectifier circuit.

Totally agree Rog about the controller, but I would also get the loco serviced as well. Lubrication dries out over time and mechanisims get dirty and gummed up.

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