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Ericm0hff

Signature: if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Bio: budding author, - r/c model designer/flyer, - scuba diver, - photographer, - radio ham, metal-detecting, - coming back into model railways after a 30 year break.

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Ericm0hff

6297 posts

@M R, I understood the o/p to mean human access, rather than a scramble-under!

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

Interesting, but EIGHT pivot points to wear and go sloppy!

With OO gauge, you only need a 1mm error in alignment to have a de-rail situation!

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

First tip - DCC ready means that there is a socket fitted READY for a decoder to be plugged in instead of the blanking plug. The loco is NOT DCC until you fit a decoder (chip).

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Second - you say old track - how old? If it is steel (grey to look at, and a magnet sticks to it, it will be more trouble than it is worth). More modern track is nickel-silver, and stays clean a lot longer. (With DCC clean track, wheels and pick-ups are essential).

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Third - Open up your track clip, and make sure there is NO capacitor in there. The capacitor is for eliminating tv interference, and corrupts DCC data. There are pages of images and instructions on removing it on here.

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Fourth - read, understand, read again, the thread Getting Started, including Track Extension Packs on the top of the General threads.

Then, when you are totally baffled, and have more questions, cme back and ask again!  Tongue Out

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

Try closing the BACK door!  Tongue Out

You'd be amazed at how tiny a hole they can get through. Have your keyholes got flaps over them? They can get in through air-bricks, or under the roof architraves. Right now they are looking for new nest-sites.

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

Well done, Ken!

We're all waiting to see it running, now!  Laughing

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

Clean the track, wheels, and pick-ups. - - and not with a piece of sandpaper or a metalworker's file!

How have you got the controller (which one is it?) connected to the track - using those silly flimsy track clips, or a proper soldered connection? Those clips are ok for dc operation, but the connection can be a bit slack for DCC use, giving rise to all kinds of anomalies.

Also check it IS a DC connector, if you must use one, not an analogue one. The conversion is easy - just cut out the little capactor under the cover!

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

1 in 50 is not a reasonable slope for a locomotive. 1 in 1000 is.

The 'long drag' near Ribblehead is 1 in 100, and steam loco's struggle up that in the damp.

I can't recall the name, but there is a small preserved line based in a quarry, where the Hunslet 0-6-0 slogs up the steep climb with three four-wheeler trucks in the back - Churnett, is it? Plenty of vid's on the 'tube.

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

The hinge blocks don't need to be continuous, just a bit wider than the hinges, but VERY solidly attached. (Glue, screw, nail, belt and braces!)

Your biggest difficulty will be getting the track ends to line up over the joint. There are several ways of doing this - all have been described many times in here and other places.

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

Gordon - if you lived in one of those houses, you would be arguing for the other way!

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

Ericm0hff

6297 posts

I think that the Peco 'Express' point is pretty close to fourth rad.

Note - they are dead frog points.

if it works first time, you did something wrong!

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