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Bulleidboy

Signature: Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

Bio: Have had an interest in trains since getting my first Hornby set in 1951. Train-spotted on the eastern region out of Kings X from 1958-1964. Then commuting into Waterloo from 1964-2009 - I became a Southern fan. I also have a passion for Ferrari road cars and Spitfire aircraft. Now retired, and appear to be a collector of locomotives, however over the last eighteen months the spare room (10x7) became available and now has and end-to-end layout around three sides of the room. It is based on a SR country terminus (WYKEHAM) - two main lines running into a fiddle yard and a branch line running station to station. All stock is BR/SR and the collection is increasing in size all the time!.

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bulleidboy

3168 posts

Sorry - senior moment - just do one wire at a time.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

I have now studied the underside of the "plug" and the wiring is as follows:

 

Orange wire to Pin 1    - Right motor

Orange wire to Pin 8    - Right rail

Black wire to Pin 4       - Left rail

Black wire to Pin 5       - Left motor

Black wire to Pin 2       - Rear Light??????????

Black wire to Pin 6       - Front Light??????????

 

If I understand FB's post correctly the wires currently attached to Pins 2 & 6 need to be re-attached to Pins 4 & 8 along with the wires already attached to these two pins.  There could be  a slight problem with identifying which black wire  (left or right) from the front bogie, is then the correct black wire at the plug end? 

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

If you look on ebay under "Hornby R850/5 there does appear to be a difference between body finish. There is currently a "matt" finish body for £10.00.  The only way I could thing of to make the tender appear to have a "gloss" finish, would be to paint/spray it with clear lacquer/varnish. Personally I'd get the matt body and try and sell the other one.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

I've dug out my Adams Radial R3333, and placed it on the track - it makes a noise, but no movement - also no smoke from a fried decoder. I have now removed the body, the decoder and the screws holding the plug to the chassis. It is very difficult to see what is soldered to what. I will get a magnifying glass to study the underside of the plug and see where the wiring is located. Using the details in FB's original post, I should be able to see where the wires are soldered. This could be fun!

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

Thank you.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

Slightly surprised this problem has only now(?) come to light - R3333 was introduced to the market in 2016. 

FB - stupid question, but when your saying "left and right wires" are we looking at the loco "head-on" and upside down?

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

It would be useful if Hornby would at least acknowledge there was a problem with some models. I have an Adams Radial R3333 fitted with a TCS DP2X-UK decoder, and it was running ok, I say was because I packed it away.  I'll have a look at it.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

Thanks HB - I won't be renewing (which I will) until I'm invited to do so. BB

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

I have a feeling that you were asked to register an interest in joing the "new" Hornby Hobbies Club.  I did receive an undated letter - I've just dug it out! The new club was launched at the Model Railway Scotland on the 23rd February 2018 - a date mentioned previously, it was also possible to renew your membership online, this function became available on the 23rd Febriary 2018 - surprise!  I note that I did actually renew, online, on the 23rd February 2018. I think I may have renewed before the letter arrived - to which was ttached a renewal form - which I have filled out just the date and my membership number.  So to conclude, I would expect the online renewal to become live on the 23rd February 2019 coinciding with a letter. I do have all the renewal forms since 2007.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

bulleidboy

3168 posts

My Hornby BR 4-6-0 Standard 4MT 75000 Class had a similar problem in that it would move and then stop with the motor buzzing away. With the body removed I could see that the motor would lift therefore disengaging the worm gear on the motor shaft from the cogs. It was possible to move the motor up and down. I fitted a new motor mount but still had the same problem. I filed down the bottom of the motor mount by about 0.5mm, which allowed the motor mount to sit slightly lower than as originally assembled - this was enough to stop the up and down movement of the motor. Obviously you shouldn't have to do this, but it was a fairly simple fix.

Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away

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