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Bulleidboy

Signature: Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

Bio: Have had an interest in trains since getting my first Hornby set in 1951. Train-spotted on the eastern region out of Kings X from 1958-1964. Then commuting into Waterloo from 1964-2009 - I became a Southern fan. I also have a passion for Ferrari road cars and Spitfire aircraft. Now retired, and appear to be a collector of locomotives, however over the last eighteen months the spare room (10x7) became available and now has and end-to-end layout around three sides of the room. It is based on a SR country terminus (WYKEHAM) - two main lines running into a fiddle yard and a branch line running station to station. All stock is BR/SR and the collection is increasing in size all the time!.

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bulleidboy

3632 posts

Hornby R2300 Bournemouth Belle Train Pack - M/N Class New Zealand Line + Three Pullman Coaches with lights.  Ebay auction - described as "New" - very low winning bid.  End of the week will see if I'm a happy man.

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

Mine is an A4 (ish) piece of 3mm plasticard screwed over a slightly smaller hole cut in my control desk. Track is marked using a roll of Halfords Car Pin Striping tape - mine's red and about 3mm wide. Toggle switches are mounted at the appropriate points (excuse the pun) where points are located. Other switches for lighting etc., are also mounted on the board. Not a good looking as some but it works.

 

https://flic.kr/p/2jPJqYu

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

Hi Craig

My boards have 9mm Birch Ply tops, with a framing about every twelve inches - the framework is four inches deep. I bought my boards as a kit, so everything was cut and pre-drilled and extremely solid. As your going to be in the garage you should seal the whole lot - top and frame to keep the damp out. You could paint it with PVA or paint, anything to stop the damp attacking.

Your track underlay is purely a matter of choice - many will say you don't need it - which you don't, but personally, if you want your track to look like the real thing, there is usually a "shoulder" of ballast either side of the track. I use 2mm cork - it was self-adhesive and came pre-cut for points and crossings, with metre strips for straight and curved sections. It does not reduce noise, once you have ballasted the track you will have more "running noise" than you did before. I would not recommend the sponge underlay that Hornby produce - it does give up the ghost in time.  BB

 

PS: A couple of pictures of boards during construction.

https://flic.kr/p/2j1Jtgd

https://flic.kr/p/2j1Edyg

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

I've added a couple of wagons (three actually) https://flic.kr/p/2k6Pk2j

 

https://flic.kr/p/2k6NFxR

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

This may help - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q7NFuP5t8E

There may be some useful tips if nothing else.

This is video number 114 - you may need to watch 115 as well.

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

Thanks for all the pictures - I like the last one showing the loco shed. By the time I came to Basingstoke (1971) the shed was long gone. Nice surprise yesterday, the HST, painted up as the Midland Blue Pullman, came through Worting on its way back to Eastleigh - not as good as a Merchant Navy, but nice to see. BB

 

PS: There has been recent talk (again!!) of re-opening Oakley Station - this was originally suggested as Manydown will have 3500 new houses within close proximity of the railway. You will probably be aware that a "parkway" was also suggested sometime ago, this would be on the Basingstoke side of the "split" in the track at Battledown.  However BR said it will not happen - so not sure why it's been resurrected - also the bridge at Worting will not be renewed - it's a serious bottleneck on what is really the western ringroad. BB

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

Hi Peter - I used cork under my track (it is/was self-adhesive) and came either in track width rolls or pre-cut and slotted for points and crossing. Once ballasted this does not reduce noise at all - but it did allow for there to be a " ballast shoulder" either side of the track. I used track pins to hold the track (Peco Code 75) down - I was able to push the pins into the ply using a pair of long-nosed pliers - no hammering or drilling. Some pins were removed once the ballast had set - but those that remain are difficult to see.

 

I have a control panel made from a large sheet of 3mm plasticard, and the track is depicted using a roll of car pin-stripping from Halfords. 

https://flic.kr/p/2jPJqYu

BB

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

Hi Peter - To answer some of your questions - I use Cobalt iP digital point motors, and there fine. Mine are wired for both DCC operation (from a Hornby Elite) and toggle switch. I only use the toggle switches - it's quicker. The toggle switches are On-Off-On  and sprung to Off. My board tops are 9mm Marine Birch Ply. BB

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

Very impressive - looks like one of those tunnels you see on YouTube, that someone is about to disappear into, and tell us where it used to lead to. 

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

bulleidboy

3632 posts

That looks good Mike. All of my buildings have a 12v/18v LED mounted on a paxolin plate with built-in resistor - they are very small and pre-wired. The plate means they can be glued (pva) to the ceilings in each room/shop window. I have this afternoon fitted false ceilings below the LED's - these being a very thin plasticard which acts as a diffuser, and takes away they glare - I tried white paper (photo-copier paper) which worked just as well, but the plasticard was easier to work with and fit - they cannot be seen from the outside.

Tomorrow will be a good day - Capt. Tom Moore

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