Power

[mbnz77]

Hi, I'm a complete newbie and just starting out with a DC layout for my son. I have all the Hornby track extensions A through F laid and just have some questions about power.

Everything runs ok but the train does get a bit slow/staggers in a couple of areas. I'm using a basic R8250 controller. 

Is it likely the controller is not powerful enough for this layout?

I've also read about bus wires, Is it likely that i will need these?

 

 

[atom3624]

Always check all joiners / fishplates are quite tight, the track is joined correctly and is correctly lined up, but above all, that R8250 works for small, modern locomotives, like the 0-4-0.

 

Anything bigger will need more power which it simply cannot sustain and 'thermals' out, so this is definitely something to 'upgrade'.

 

Al.

[Chrissaf]

With regard to power connections for the standard Hornby track plan using packs A to F review Chapter 5 of my downloadable 'Getting Started, including Track Extension Packs' guide. It can be downloaded from here:

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/track-extension-pack-guide/?p=1

[Jimbo1707820979]

Hello mbnz77. It may be that there is invisible "dirt" on sections of your track. Just try running a track rubber or a cloth with IPA over the spots where your loco stumbles. It is surprising how a little dirt can affect running. Otherwise please take a look at the cleanliness of your loco wheels. Maybe this simple fact is the cause of your troubles. Hope this helps.

[mbnz77]

Thanks everyone.

Your guide is very useful Chrisaaf. Regarding the wiring, you suggest the use of a link wire (figure 10 in the guide). Is it a better option to solder the link wire to the track in this location?

Also, am I correct In saying the track layout is the same for all extension packs regardless of whether DC or DCC is used? I have used insulated fish plates in the location shown in figure 16 (as the plan was originally to go DC with 2 controllers) will this effect anything if I decide to go DCC?

[Chrissaf]

Is it a better option to solder the link wire to the track in this location?

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Yes........what came to light after the guide was written is that the wire in the kit is short. And would need extending anyway if the kit was used. If you can solder, then soldered wires to rails will always be the best most reliable option. Do not however, solder the Hornby power clip itself to the rails. Just the wires, then any suitable wire can be used. The power clips used in the R8201 link wire kit are DC Analogue (have suppression capacitors in them) and are not compatible with DCC control.......see addendum.

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But be aware, these Fig 10 connection wires are for a DC Analogue layout. They are not needed for a DCC controlled layout provided that the Hornby R8232 DCC Digital Point clips are fitted. These point clips, when fitted, pass the power through all the potential routes provided by the point. Thus they are replicating the function of the wires. Note that if you start off DC Analogue and fit the wires. The wires can be left in-situ along with the addition of the R8232 point clips if you go DCC later.

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Even better than using the R8232 clips, a 'Full' DCC Bus power distribution system will negate the need to fit point clips altogether. The R8232 point clips can be a potential fault liability, as are the Hornby track power clips. Google "DCC Bus wiring" for more information. Your initial post infers that you are at least familiar with the Bus term. Note: Bus wiring is for DCC powered layouts, not DC Analogue powered ones.

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Also, am I correct In saying the track layout is the same for all extension packs regardless of whether DC or DCC is used?

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Yes......the differences between the DC and the DCC versions is just the way in which power is connected and distributed. And of course, the type of controller and locos used.

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I have used insulated fish plates in the location shown in figure 16 (as the plan was originally to go DC with 2 controllers) will this effect anything if I decide to go DCC?

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Yes, but not significantly........in DCC all the track is 'live' all the time and wired as one 'single' electrical power zone (domain). The IRJs can be left in-situ, if both the inner and outer power feeds are connected to the DCC controller output. You must however get the wires the same way round, else you will get a short circuit as the train starts to traverse the IRJ joint.

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Addendum.

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Should you start DC Analogue and go Digital DCC later, it is imperative that any DC Analogue power track / power clip products are either modified for DCC working or replaced with the Digital R8241 & R8242 versions. The DC Analogue versions are R8206, R602 & R8201. The capacitors distort and corrupt the sensitive DCC data signal.

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The modification is easy to perform and just involves removing the capacitor from the Analogue products.

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[mbnz77]

Thank you Chrissaf, this helps greatly