Chas1969 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Hi thereTotal beginner here when it comes to Hornby 00. Set arrived as a present for our 7 yr old, and finding it hard to make it all work in terms of continual play without issues. We now understand short circuits and resetting. Main issues are1. The bogey on the engine and keeping it on the rails. I've added some washers as per an idea I found on the forum but may have made it worse! 2. Attaching the tender without derailing the engine due to the 'pin and eye' couplerDetail etc on the engine are great but it's not yet providing much enjoyment. I wonder if a simpler engine (do they all have bogeys?) without a tender would be a good investment?Any advice welcomed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 For instant play value the little pocket rocket 0-4-0 engines are sturdy and better suited to small hands, next the bigger 0-6-0 engines are a logical step up whilst being simple to rail with one hand. As you have found out bogie equipped locos can be a pest at times, both to initially set on track and to keep on track. Your biggest problem with a train set basic controller is lack of oomph for running more than one engine. If sticking with analogue then invest in a better controller or decide whether to shift over to DCC from the start. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas1969 Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Thanks Rob. Happy to stick with running 1 engine for now but will get one of the models you suggest for ease of play and mothball the FS for a while. If we went DCC or upgraded the analogue controller what kit/cost is involved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrissaf Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 If we went DCC or upgraded the analogue controller what kit/cost is involved?.To keep with analogue and just upgrade the Hornby provided set controller to better quality / power. Second-hand will be cheaper, but a branded quality brand new Analogue controller will start at about £45 based upon Gaugemaster DC Analogue controller products..To go DCC.Potentially double what you have spent already (if based on purchase new Elite prices)..Typically, the R1167 FS Set cost you around £130 - £150..A Hornby Select DCC Controller about £85 to £110 but this is a very basic DCC controller with limited functionality.orA Hornby Elite DCC Controller (preferred fully functional controller) about £210 to £250..Plus a DCC decoder for each and every loco in the fleet at about £15 to £20 each for a basic non sound decoder. Plus a labour fitting charge, if you do not do DIY.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Hornby only makes the HM2000 analogue better controller but Gaugemaster nd others make decent kit, which forum rules prevent us from openly recommending, hence you will have to await other input and look it up online. Going DCC means buying a controller and installing a decoder into each loco. Again Hornby make their own kit which can be found on the main website, but as they say other stuff is available. Hornby DCC kit ranges from Railmaster and eLink to stand alone Select or more capable Elite controllers. Decoders range from basic R8249, to the more capable,R8245 Sapphire or TTS sound decoders. A case of sit doen and read up about it before deciding which way to go.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Gaugemaster is an excellent make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Doc Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 If the engine bogie is frequently derailing it may be as much due to the track as the loco itself. Is your track down on a solid flat board, or is it just resting on the track mat on the carpet? A completely flat surface is essential for reliable running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 or the curves are too tight, and the bogey is catching on the cylinders, etc. - or a combination of both. Also, are you using it a bit like a racing car? That's a common fault, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 Also to consider is the back to back wheel measurement. Carpet running is bad for mechanisms and track alike and will cause derailments so if you are running it on carpet then it's not a good idea. Speed is another issue, running the loco fast most of the time will cause extra wear to bearings and other parts. Locos should be run in gently. Going DCC won't cure the derailing issue. A simple 0-4-0 set or 0-6-0 set will give hours of fun even if a younger modeller has a heavy right foot. The Hornby 0-4-0's are renown for their turn of speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darthtrainspotter Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 I had some issues with FSM and Coronation class derailment on the front bogie. Curves were second radius and on a completely flat hard surface. I ended up wrapping lead wire round the bolt holding them to the frame. As a beginner myself I was wondering if this is a common issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 A lot is to do with speed as well as tight curves. Modern steam locos much prefer 3rd rad minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas1969 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 Thanks for the replies all. Think we'll stay analogue for the foreseeable.Track is laid out on the track mat so curves match recommended layout, with track mat on hardwood floor. May well be some speeding going on, bear in mind age of driver.I've adjusted the washers/bogey and seems to be staying on better, easing off over points makes a difference. However if we do get a derailment it's still tricky for the boy to get the wheels back on. We have the red 'shoehorn' but the good work of that is undone by the need to attach the tender via the pin/eye set up (why didn't Hornby put a standard coupler on?). A change of engine will help I'm sure, and a decoupler track section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 Locos and tenders are not joined by an ordinary coupling in real life. If Hornby used ordinary couplings the tender and loco would be far too far apart and would look daft. Fireman would need an extremely long shovel as well. 😆 Just join the loco and tender together and slide down the rerailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas1969 Posted January 1, 2019 Author Share Posted January 1, 2019 Fair point on the real life front. The combined engine and tender are a bit long for the rerailer so becomes a bit tricky, certainly for small hands. Have seen suggestions to close couple the units and images showing bolts both ends on the link piece but will need to find one of the right size to replace the headless pin bolt on the engine end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 This is how I swapped out the pin and eye (as you call it) method on my Mallard. A sort of half way house fettle..but you get the general idea.http://myweb.cytanet.com.cy/honnor/page15.htmlRob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas1969 Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Thanks. Will order the small parts pack as that should sort me out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aec pete Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 if you cant manage a simple 4-6-2 loco then i sugest you buy a 0-4-0 loco and a few wagons.big locos are for big boys.its a pity hornby seem to think these locos are ok for under 13 year olds.they are not.and must be handled carefuly these days. It was ok in the traing railway days when locos were built strong for kids like me who had them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 If you read the spec for Hornby steam locos it say age 14+. One I noticed said 3+ but I reckon that is a mistake. I find you remark about unable to manage a simple 4-6-2 a little insulting. All people are different. Some have failing eyesight others have less nimble fingers. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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