First Layout

[DylsTrack]

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Afternoon all,

I’m looking to create a ‘highland Style’ terrain and have been looking at the attached photos. Does anyone have any experience of using the sub terrain formers and advice as to how one would go about designing the track layout to suit? I’m after an exact replica of the photo on a 6x4ft board.

 

any advice appreciated on appropriate software etc.

 

Thanks

Phil

[RB51]

Hi Phil, welcome to the forum.

 

What scale do you intend using?

 

R-

 

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[atom3624]

Welcome to the forum.

 

Looks very interesting.

 

Plenty has been written on here even in recent months regarding gradients.

 

Al.

[The Doc]

Hi Dylstrack,

Firstly welcome to the forum, and apologies if my post isn't too helpful because I have not used the woodland scenics track bed formers you are referring to. 

 

However, assuming you are going for 00 gauge, then it will be a bit of a squeeze to replicate the top layout in 6' x 4'.  If I am reading the design correctly, it is a single loop continuous run which crosses over itself a couple of times.  The inner curves are likely to be first radius (R605) (370mm radius circle) which are quite tight.  I happily use them (within limitations), but others advise against because many of the larger more modern models made by Hornby and others won't cope well - derailments are very likely.  Therefore, if the layout is a single continuous loop, be aware that you will be restricted in which models you can run.

Another point is that there are quite a few steep gradients on the layout, which again will cause some running problems, restricting which locos will run and how long a train they can pull.  Going from flat to a steep incline, and on a curve, is about the worst combination for causing derailments.  Many forum users would say that you should avoid inclines unless you have a much bigger layout where they can be gradual, and I would recommend starting an incline on straight track (and away from points, those these are not included on your plan).

[The Doc]

Another thought - this is the sort of layout plan that was more popular 50 years ago in the days of Triang when locos and rolling stock had thicker, cruder wheel flanges that reduced the likelihood of derailments on uneven track.  Triang also fitted magnets next to driving wheels (called magnadhesion) which helped locos stick to steel track and pull very strongly up hills.  Modern track is not steel so not magnetic.

Sorry if my posts seem too negative so far.  So here's the positive: An alternative might be to build a completely level, but raised, track bed using the subterrain formers so that you can include a viaduct or bridge with road or river flowing underneath it.  This would still give you good depth to your layout.  Many layouts (including my own) are, in my opinion, too flat with almost all the track directly on a flat baseboard.  I have only a small portion where the railway goes over a river bridge - this one bit of depth makes a big visual improvement.

[Buz]

Hi Dyls Track

First up I have concerns about the apparent lack of a solid support structure under the illustrated layouts.

I am also concerned about the relatively small size of the layout and the need as a result of the size for first radius curves.

Spaghetti bowl layouts where popular in the USA as a means of getting a longer run for the trains.

I personally am not a fan of this style of layout as getting good believable scenery can be problematic.

The raised structure to support the track will have to be accurately spaced and aligned so it supports the track.

Grades will have to be accurately done with particular attention to the transitions at the top and base of grades, trains will be short not a real issue if the layout is in the Scottish Highlands as the trains do tend to be short.

Your track work will have to be perfect with all the ups and downs and you will have to well and truly test the track with running trains to make sure the track and electrics work perfectly before closing in with scenery and make sure you have easy assess to all tunnels in case of a derailment in a tunnel.

I have never used the Woodland Scenic's Systems so don't know how good they are but with a solid base structure can't see any reason it should not work.

regards John

[2e0dtoeric]

Go onto You-tube, and look up Jennifer Kirk's building the lot layout series. She used these foam gradients - but on a much larger layout than you are proposing.

What the useful life of these foam products is - is not known, they are too new. It IS known that foam or sponge 'ballast' under track doesn't last. After a year or so, it crumbles away.

[The Doc]

@Eric

"After a year or so it crumbles away."  This is at very least an exaggeration.  I don't think Hornby or Peco would have been making the stuff for years if it was that bad.  My layout, in the garage, is nearly 20 years old and most of the foam ballast is still as good as new.  I suspect it degrades in strong sunlight or excess heat - but then so do many polymers.  

[2e0dtoeric]

There's a typo I just spotted in my previous comment - too late to edit - it should read  - building the loft layout.  😳

[96RAF]

I’m after an exact replica of the photo on a 6x4ft board.

 

I am sure if you contacted Woodland Scenics they would give you full details of that plan, including part numbers, lengths and quantities, then you could go along to your local model shop and pickup the bits needed to replicate it. I also thought they had a downloadable tutorial on their website.