SBaseboard material

Hi Peter - To answer some of your questions - I use Cobalt iP digital point motors, and there fine. Mine are wired for both DCC operation (from a Hornby Elite) and toggle switch. I only use the toggle switches - it's quicker. The toggle switches are On-Off-On  and sprung to Off. My board tops are 9mm Marine Birch Ply. BB

Thanks for that BB.

I was thinking of making a control panel and use switches to operate the points.

What is your track layed on. Is it worth me using  cork or insulation board (kingspan) or can I screw directly to the board.I will be putting a flyover in the circuit.

Peter

Hi Peter - I used cork under my track (it is/was self-adhesive) and came either in track width rolls or pre-cut and slotted for points and crossing. Once ballasted this does not reduce noise at all - but it did allow for there to be a " ballast shoulder" either side of the track. I used track pins to hold the track (Peco Code 75) down - I was able to push the pins into the ply using a pair of long-nosed pliers - no hammering or drilling. Some pins were removed once the ballast had set - but those that remain are difficult to see.

I have a control panel made from a large sheet of 3mm plasticard, and the track is depicted using a roll of car pin-stripping from Halfords. 

https://flic.kr/p/2jPJqYu

BB

If you have a multi-layered baseboard i.e OSB board plus 25mm insulation plus cork plus whatever else you add. Then the overall thickness will probably be too great to accommodate the operating pin of your point operating motor. If you try to compensate for that by cutting a large hole in the base OSB material to reduce the thickness directly under the point operating bar, then the 25mm insulation material would in my opinion not provide a strong rigid enough mounting for the Cobalt iP Digital point motor.

By 'flyover' I assume you mean a gradient leading up to and down from some form of bridge that goes over a lower track. Such a flyover is very unlikely to be successful if your layout board is going to be 8ft x 4ft or smaller. There are loads of threads on this forum as to why gradients using non-magnetic 'Nickle Silver' track and modern light weight low power locomotives should be avoided. To rise up to a sufficient height to clear a track underneath typically [based upon the forum consensus accumulated from previous threads] needs a straight run up with no curves of 8 feet and another 8 feet going down. Else modern locos will struggle to haul anything more than one or two carriages.

It is appreciated that height adds scenic interest, but the best way to achieve this is not to raise and lower the track, but to raise and lower the baseboard. For example a cut out on the baseboard can be used to create a valley to represent a river or canal or road and a bridge or viaduct can then traverse over the valley, but at the same time the track itself remains totally flat.

Any Hornby track plans that you may have found with gradients, will almost certainly be old plans when track was magnetic steel and not 'Nickle Silver' and locos were heavier with more powerful motors and had the Hornby / Triang 'Magnahesion' feature [magnetic downforce attraction to the steel based rails].

 Assuming that you can still get it I always found Sundela (approx 10mm if I remember correctly) was the best providing you can get a ridgid support frame. As I was unable to get this I used MDFof a similar thickness  which is a little harder. As to cork underlay I have not bothered on most of my layout.

Thanks For your advice much appreciated.

Peter

 Assuming that you can still get it I always found Sundela (approx 10mm if I remember correctly) was the best providing you can get a ridgid support frame. As I was unable to get this I used MDFof a similar thickness  which is a little harder. As to cork underlay I have not bothered on most of my layout.

Great Eastern Models of Norwich make all their moduled baseboards with Sundeala tops.They are a highly recommended local model shop, who will accept telephone orders and send out stuff during this irritating pandemic. They are active on FB with a selling page.

Hi.

Thanks for your advice last night Rop.

Chris could you send me some links to wiring the system from start to finish. I intend to fit track lighting along with the Digital points signals Etc. I have downloaded the Cobalt digital manual.

Thanks Peter

Chris could you send me some links to wiring the system from start to finish.

You are asking for potentially a lot of information. You will have to supply a lot more detail first.

OK the info you have supplied so far is [items in bold]:

Controller = RailMaster and eLink [but what power pack ... the default 1 amp supply or the 4 amp upgrade supply?]

Point motors = DCC Concepts iP Digital point motors [but how many?]

Point motors .... iP Digital have manual over-ride capabilities and auxiliary contacts ... do you want to make use of these optional features and in what manner?

Are you intending to deploy a DCC BUS system?

What do you mean by track lighting? Do you mean generic layout lighting such as platform lights, internal building lights etc. If so, what form are these going to take?

Signals .... there are so many different variations and control methods you will have to specify brand and model numbers, as each will have different wiring requirements.