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Cutting Flexitrack


mickeyrail

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The three most common documented ways are:

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  • Dremel cutter with fine abrasive metal cutting disk.
  • Razor Saw (very fine tipped saw required).
  • Xuron track cutter.

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I have a Dremel, I have a Razor Saw and I have a Xuron cutter and have used all three methods. In my opinion, by far the most efficient and less problematic to use was the Xuron track cutter. It is precise, provides a clean square edged cut and above all is quick and simple. The Dremel is a close second, but is aggressive, meaning you can easily cut too deep and nip whatever is underneath and it makes it difficult to obtain a square cut to the rail end as you have to angle the Dremel slightly because of the bulk of the motor handle getting in the way. Another problem with the Dremel being aggressive, it is too easy to cut the rail length too short because of the thickness of the cutting disk. I found you had to start your cut slightly further away (about 1mm) from the required finshed cut point and grind back with the side of the disk. It removes metal so quickly, one slight move of the wrist can mean loosing a mm or more of rail you didn't mean to cut away. Plus being a power tool there is a risk of snatching and ruining a cut end of track. The Razor Saw can give a clean square cut, but because of its length you need plenty of clear space each side of the track being cut (if already fixed on the baseboard).

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In Conclusion.

As the name suggests, the Xuron is designed for track cutting from the outset, the other two methods are not. Thus, as a tool designed for a task, it does it very well.........highly recommended in my view.

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Further to my last post:

Forgot to add, there are two Xuron cutters, each have a different cutting profile to their cutting edges. The most common one is designed to cut the rail from top to bottom (to give the clean square cut). This is the one I recommend. The other Xuron cutter (less common) is designed to cut the rail from side to side i.e using the cutter from above the track as opposed to holding the cutter side-on to the track rail for the 'top to bottom' cutting action. This 'side to side' cutter is designed to cut track that is already laid and fixed to the baseboard, where access to the underside is difficult or impossible. For laying new track, the 'top to bottom' cutter is the one to use.

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I could be considered a butcher but I use a very small 3 sided file used by guitar players to adjust the string action/height, I just file a groove and snap the rail like a carrot file the ends square and thats it, I have been using this method for years.

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I use a Xuron cutter (looks like a pair of pliers!)

If you use a Dremel (type) disk, you MUST wear eye protection, and keep your fingers well clear of the item being cut, as the high-speed disk can snatch, and either grabs and runs off with you, or shatters, flinging fragments all over the place at high speed.

Whichever method you prefer, I would recommend a jewellers/lock-maker's tiny file, for removing any burrs from the end of the cut surface, as it makes fitting the fish-plates so much easier!

If you can find them, a diamond file is best, as it doesn't clog or wear out like an inexpensive metal one. (and they're not a lot dearer!)

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Like Chris, I have all three, but I do tend to mostly use the razor saw in an X-Acto handle. I never use the Dremel  (mine's not actually a Dremel but similar) as I find it difficult to keep a steady hand and tend to slip and mark the top of the rail, or worse!

 

 

  Just to add to my own post, I should have added that I use a small block of wood to hold the rails in place whilst sawing. The block is in 2 halves,, felt lined and the top half is grooved for N and 00 gauge. I bought it years ago, can't remember from where, but it's great to hold both rails in place and stop them being torn out of the chairs by the saw movement.

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Yes, TWD, I have just used my Xuron to cut a few track rails and, if you're not careful, you can unintentionally let a rail twist and disengage from nearby sleeper chairs. I have to remind myself that the cutting edges are right towards the cutter ends as well, not all along. In some respects I preferred my old rail cutters which, unfortunately, I broke a cutter off because I attempted to cut some other metal which was obviously too thick for them to handle. I can't remember what make or model they were but they had curved blades, longer cutting edges and orange coloured handle sleeves. Oh, and the latter keep on sliding off my Xuron when being gripped for use. I've tried gluing them back, but unsuccessfully. Perhaps someone can recommend a specific adhesive for that purpose.

 

Oh dear! And I have just ordered a Dremel 7700 Cordless Rotary Tool with accessories because I need to cut my DCC system live frog point rails as per Brian Lambert, which would not be at all easy or suitable for such a fine cut.

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Just to add to my own post, I should have added that I use a small block of wood to hold the rails in place whilst sawing. The block is in 2 halves,, felt lined and the top half is grooved for N and 00 gauge. I bought it years ago, can't remember from where, but it's great to hold both rails in place and stop them being torn out of the chairs by the saw movement.

 

I can't find that block for sale anymore, but I came across this video of a guy making his own:

 

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I use a mini disc. As the drill is very light it is very controllable, but if you are working close to something that you dont want to damage then I put about three layers of masking tape so that if I do slip its unlikely the disc would go through the tape before you instinctively snatched it away. For anything else nearby cover with a cloth or card to avoid bits from a disc shattering from causing damage - although I have only once had one break on me. 

Also- make sure the disc is not blunt as if it is not, you tend to force to cut and then the risk of a slip or the disc breaking increases. The weight of the drill should work the disc through the track.

I also use masking tape to mark where I want to cut and to form a visual guide. 

Goggles are a must though - I was trimming a sliver of rail off the other day and the piece I cut off flew into my thumb - no blood but it stung as it was very hot !   

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TWD, if a Dremel is not a good answer, what else could I use to cut my live frog inner rails with then? You couldn't use a saw or cutters for that, with no access for the former and too rough a cut with the latter.

 

Sorry Graskie, misunderstood your post. Cutting frogs is something I've not contemplated, let alone carried out, but I can't imagine a better tool than your new Dremel for the job.  My previous posts were in response to the OPs requests on ways to cut flexi track rails.

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I feel I'm somewhere near plucking up the courage to have a go with my Dremel. I appreciate that this thread should only be about cutting flexitrack but I started the deviation and will therefore defiantly continue.

 

I'm just a bit concerned about the cutting disks I have. They are abrasive Dremel Heavy Duty Cut-Off Wheels N. 420. They are 1mm thick. Are they suitable for cutting what needs to be a pretty fine gap, the gap to be filled with insulating rail profiled plastic afterwards? Should I use even thinner or finer metal disks for such cutting?

 

I've cleaned up my old goggles and will be wearing all the other recommended protection, plus, probably, a box.

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