Q. Are signals sent digitally using AC current or are they controlled by lowering and increasing the DC voltage?
A. A pulse signal is sent down the track using DC voltage. This signal controls the steam regulator in the locomotive and the heating elements.
Q. Can I keep other engines in the sidings whilst using Live Steam?
A. Yes you can. However, you must put an isolating switch in the wiring between the controller and the siding.
Q. Can I use Live Steam on a layout that already has a conventional 12 volt DC Hornby controller attached to it?
A. Yes you can, but make sure the conventional controller is turned off and better still isolated by a double pole switch; likewise the supply cable from the Live Steam controller to the power track. You can then switch between the two different controllers as required.
Q. Can I use Live Steam with accessories like the Hornby turntable?
A. No, the turntable is not suitable for use with Live Steam because of the way the turntable is powered and wired.
Q. Can other electric powered locomotives fitted with DCC chips run on the same track?
A. No. Hornby Live Steam locomotives are not designed to run alongside or with DCC control.
Q. Can other Live Steam locomotives be run using the same regulator?
A. All Live Steam locomotives can be run from the same regulator, although not at the same time as other Live Steam locomotives.
Q. Can standard flexible track be used?
A. Yes, standard Hornby set-track and flexible track can be used with your Live Steam locomotive, as well as standard Hornby points.
Q. Can two or more engines be run on the same track?
A. No, only one locomotive can be run at a time.
Q. Can two or more steam control boxes be used for independent control?
A. No.
Q. Does the track voltage stay constant?
A. The voltage is dependent on the steam setting - for example, when the locomotive is in simmer mode the voltage can be around 10 volts; in superheat mode, the voltage is 16-17 volts.
Q. How controllable is the Live Steam locomotive and how do you make it stop?
A. After a period of running in and with some practice by the driver, the locomotive is very controllable for speed and direction. To stop, the driver simply reverses the regulator.
Q. How fast does the locomotive go?
A. Running a live steam locomotive at excessive speed may cause it to derail and become damaged.
Q. How hot does the locomotive body get?
A. The body does get very hot. It is highly recommended that gloves (provided in the Live Steam set and with solo locomotives) are used when handling the locomotive.
Q. How is the whistle activated?
A. The whistle sounds when the locomotive changes direction from forward to reverse, or vice versa.
Q. How many coaches will the locomotive pull?
A. In simple terms, a locomotive can pull approximately ten standard Hornby Mk1 coaches on a level surface, although this is dependent on a few factors including the cleanliness of the track, any gradient on your layout and the weight of the load. However, to get a feel of how the locomotive performs, only add a small number of coaches while you are learning to drive. Remember, you have to ‘drive’ your locomotive when approaching climbs and descents, i.e. speed up when approaching inclines and decelerate when coming down.
Q. How many engines can be run with one transformer?
A. Only one locomotive can be run per transformer at any one time.
Q. I am ready to operate my locomotive, which is in steam, and I have followed the instructions properly. It is on the power track section ready to go, but it won’t move off - what can I do?
A. The location of the locomotive over the power track is causing a sensitive safety device in the locomotive to detect an extra load on the servomotor. To solve this problem, move the locomotive about two to three feet from the power track and give it a gentle push when starting off.
Q. Is it normal for the body of my locomotive to get very oily while it is running?
A. This is caused by excessive oil in the locomotive. Make sure you don’t overfill the locomotive and ensure you only add 0.5ml of oil every three to four runs.
Q. My locomotive is in steam and ready to go, but when I flick the speed regulator lever it is jerky when moving forward or accelerates very quickly. How can I make it move off smoothly and, therefore, realistically?
A. Because of the nature of the steam regulator mechanism, there is a degree of ‘slack’ that has to be taken up before the locomotive’s speed or direction is noticeably altered. Typically this takes about ten ‘dabs’ of the control lever. Make sure you do deliberate, definite ‘dabs’ - you will hear a click from the electronics in the control box which will signify the command was sent to and received by the locomotive, and the cab light will momentarily go out. When you become more proficient at driving and controlling the locomotive the control lever can be held over for a time, enabling the servo motor to run for a longer period, and release just at the right time to get a smooth start without excessive wheel spin or acceleration.
Q. My locomotive ran out of water and stopped, so I turned the control box off, but when I turn it back on after filling the locomotive with water, the green light is on - will this affect my locomotive?
A. If your locomotive runs out of water and stops, it is important to flick the speed regulator in the opposite direction to the way it was running until the red light comes on, as you would if you wanted the locomotive to stop normally. This should always be done to make sure the valve is set to stop and on subsequent steamings, therefore, it will quickly raise steam.
Q. What additional electrical connections should be made at rail joints?
A. Just like conventional 12 volt DC electric layouts, there is no need to make any further connections at rail joints providing a clean and solid joint has already been made. However, for piece of mind, the best continuity will be achieved by soldering each joint.
Q. What happens when the water runs out?
A. The locomotive boiler includes an automatic safety cut-out which cuts the electrical supply to the locomotive when it runs out of water. An audible sound from the control box will also be heard. To re-set the cut-out, flick the speed regulator lever in the reverse direction to which the locomotive was running until the red lamp lights in the locomotive cab, turn the controller and transformer box off and let the locomotive cool before refilling. With practice and familiarisation of the locomotive, a driver will be able to stop the engine before it runs dry. Running time of a locomotive will vary depending on speed, direction and load, although 20 minutes, and more, can be expected from one filling.
Q. What is the back to back wheel dimension of Live Steam?
A. The measurement is 14.5mm.
Q. What is the difference between distilled and deionised water?
A. Distilled water is produced by boiling water and capturing the pure vapour that is generated from the steam. Distilled water contains no harmful 'clogging' minerals. Deionised water contains no ions. This means that through an electrolytic process, the chemically reactive molecules have been removed.
Q. What is the high pitched electronic whistle I can hear from my locomotive?
A. There is nothing wrong with the locomotive. The whistle is part of the electronics control circuit that adjusts the steam valve and under normal running conditions is hardly audible.
Q. What is the motor for?
A. The motor opens and closes the steam regulator valve to increase or restrict the flow of steam. A digital pulse is sent to the motor from the speed regulator which turns the motor gradually, opening or closing the steam valve.
Q. What type of water do I need to use?
A. Only distilled water should be used to run your Live Steam locomotive - under no circumstances should you use tap water or de-ionised water as this will damage the locomotive.
Q. While my locomotive is running, there is more steam coming out of the safety valve than the chimney. What can I do to stop this?
A. Sometimes a little bit of dirt will hold the safety valve off its seat. A gentle tap on the body top, near the valve, will often allow it to re-seat.
Q. Why can’t I get water into the boiler?
A. There is an air block, so you should let the air out as the water goes in by lifting the syringe slightly out of the tank when filling with water.
Q. Why do some track joints get warm when using Live Steam?
A. This indicates a poor electrical connection between the joints. To help eliminate the problem you can solder the track joints or insert ‘jumper’ cables to help take the current past the problem area. Likely areas are points, diamond crossings and layouts made from many short pieces of track. Ideally, the less joints there are, the better. On larger layouts, booster cables may be required to distribute the current load evenly around the track. Typically, a 3m x 1.5m single oval of track will require a booster cable directly opposite the power track supply point.
Q. Why does my locomotive move off in the opposite direction to which I expected it to?
A. If you unintentionally move the locomotive backwards and/or forwards when coupling coaches or placing the locomotive on the track, this can upset the reversing mechanism. To counteract this, roll the locomotive forwards a couple of wheel rotations to re-set the forwards/reversing gear. Alternatively, the locomotive’s regulator valve has gone past the full speed position and is now out of sync with the controller - this can often happen if you have been trying to get the locomotive underway without waiting for a sufficient head of steam. To reset the regulator valve, continue flicking the speed regulator lever in the forwards position, while holding the locomotive with protective gloves if it has a head of steam, until the red lamp in the locomotive lights up. Now you can operate the speed regulator lever to correspond with the locomotive’s direction, ensuring that you do not go past the full speed position.
Q. Why does my locomotive speed up when I want it to slow down, and vice versa?
A. This occurs when the speed regulator valve has gone past the full speed position and the valve is now shutting. The regulator valve is effectively a rotary device and if the regulator lever on the controller is held over in one direction, the valve position will ‘cycle’ between stop - speeding up - full speed- slowing down - stop, and so on. It is very important to only operate the locomotive with a full head of steam so that it is able to respond correctly and you don’t operate it past the full speed position in either direction. To reset the regulator valve to the correct action, you will need to operate the valve to the ‘stop’ position. To do this, operate the speed regulator lever in the same direction, holding the locomotive with protective gloves if it is in steam, until the locomotive’s red lamp is lit. Now, only operate the regulator lever on the controller until the desired speed is reached, and operate the lever in the opposite direction to slow, stop, whistle and reverse the direction of the locomotive.
Q. Why is there no steam coming out of the locomotive's chimney when it is running?
A. Sometimes a ‘plug’ (or droplet) of oil and water blocks the chimney. Simply blow down the chimney to clear it.
Q. Why should I not use deionised water in my Live Steam boiler?
A. Deionised water will readily take on new ions from metal with which it comes into contact - Copper, Zinc and Silver seem to be particularly susceptible. Investigations have shown that the Silver soldered joints in boilers can weaken and eventually fail, with potentially disastrous results.
Q. Will oil and water deposits affect track and electrics?
A. Dirt will build up on any model railway whether you are running Live Steam or conventional 12 volt electric trains. Minimal amounts of steam and spent oil are deposited from a Live Steam locomotive, but it is important to keep the track clean to maintain good electrical continuity on the track, and therefore control of your Live Steam locomotive.
Q. How do I remove the body from my Live Steam Flying Scotsman?
A. To remove the body, turn the locomotive upside down (ensuring it has cooled first) and remove the screw closest to the front of the loco. Also ensure that the oil filler screw has been removed as this holds the body to the chassis. Once all screws have been removed, lift and slide the body simultaneously forward.
Q. What are the black rings fitted to the filler caps on my A3?
A. These are 'seals', or 'o rings', that ensure that a tight seal is made during steaming up/running. If the black seal on the boiler filler cap is not present or it has been split, steam will only leak from the boiler overflow rather than be pushed through to the safety valve/superheater. Likewise, if the smaller seal is not fitted suitably to the oil filler cap, problems will arise during running. Spare seals are available from Live Steam service dealers or Hornby Customer Care (part no. X9535).