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70's hymek

Hi.

I have recently acquired a hymek from 1974 (R758) and both of the wires have cane loose from the copper strips what sit round the motor. I have tried to re-attach the wires as it says on the wiring diagram and still no joy. The motor runs well

when i put power directly to the brushes.

What i would like to know is, is it possible to re-wire it so it does run? If not, how would i got about repairing it?

Thanks in advance

chrisr390

Posts: 21 posts

Chris,

Hi mate, if the motor runs and the wheel pick ups work it may be the wires themselves are broken? Do you or a friend have a test meter so you can check this? You only need to get the twelve volt power from the wheels to the motor on a DC

loco.

Hope this helps you get your loco running again.
Warm regards,

K J D

Southernman777

Posts: 284 posts

How are you at soldering?

Get off the line Bobby.

poliss

Posts: 5098 posts

As you have said, the wires have come off, so you will need to solder them back on.
If you don't think you can do this, take it to a dealer or maybe somebody at a local model railway club will be able to help you.
Good luck!

WTD

Nurse, the screens.

walkingthedog

Posts: 8924 posts

thanks southernman. I may just replace the wires if i can get to the contacts as the front bogie is rivited to the chassis. Im ok at soldering but any tips on how to improve my soldering skills are always welcome.

chrisr390

Posts: 21 posts

Chris,

Greetings. If you need to get the rivet off you can always fix the bogie back with a suitable nut & bolt with washer but be careful not to damage the body. Best to drill the rivet out in stages so as not to generate too much heat - as I've

done this and damaged the surrounding plastic (good to learn from mistakes of others I guess?).

When soldering I assume you'll know to 'tin' the wire end and tab before soldering and make sure the iron is hot. If you use pliers or similar to hold the

wire while soldering and only touch the joint with the iron for a short time - sufficient to make the joint but not melt the surrounding plastic. Keep hold of the wire while the hot solder joint cools. Should be good for a while.

Let us know if you

get the Hymek working again.

Have fun.

PS when you say the front bogie is riveted do you mean the driving motor one? I thought this had a clip at the top? The trailing bogie is riveted. I had one ages ago and there are some design improvements

over the years of this lovely model.

K J D

Southernman777

Posts: 284 posts

Chris,

Greetings. If you need to get the rivet off you can always fix the bogie back with a suitable nut & bolt with washer but be careful not to damage the body. Best to drill the rivet out in stages so as not to generate too much heat - as I've

done this and damaged the surrounding plastic (good to learn from mistakes of others I guess?).

When soldering I assume you'll know to 'tin' the wire end and tab before soldering and make sure the iron is hot. If you use pliers or similar to hold the

wire while soldering and only touch the joint with the iron for a short time - sufficient to make the joint but not melt the surrounding plastic. Keep hold of the wire while the hot solder joint cools. Should be good for a while.

Let us know if you

get the Hymek working again.

Have fun.

PS when you say the front bogie is riveted do you mean the driving motor one? I thought this had a clip at the top? The trailing bogie is riveted. I had one ages ago and there are some design improvements

over the years of this lovely model.

K J D

Southernman777

Posts: 284 posts

The R.758 Hymek has a powered bogie at one end and an unpowered bogie at the other. Locomotives which are powered in this way lose less tractive effort on curves if the powered end is coupled to the train. (The driving force is coupled to the trains through

a smaller angle and therefore less of it is diverted into sideways thrust.) If the train is running in the normal direction, i.e. engine leading, the non-powered bogie would be at the front for best operation, just as the OP has described it. It's a leading

bogie, not a trailing bogie. However, to avoid getting into an argument about that, let's just talk about the powered bogie and the unpowered one.

There are pickups on all four wheels of the powered bogie in this version, and they are connected to the

brush springs by flanges which form extensions of the horizontal pickup pieces, which are bent up vertically. Referring to Service Sheet 93, these pickup pieces are called "Collector Unit, S.3442". If these vertical contact flanges have broken off there is

little hope of repairing them with a soldering iron. On the other hand, if they are intact the loco should run even if the wires from the unpowered bogie are broken. These wires improve the track contact by connecting one wheel on each side of the unpowered

bogie to the appropriate pickup piece via the axle, thus providing pickup from three wheels on each side which is more reliable than only two. The pickups on the powered bogie can get trapped around the wrong side of the wheels if the wheels are removed for

cleaning, and this is the most likely cause of lack of contact. There are no wires between the wheels on the powered bogie and the brushes, just a spring (x.665).

If the wires from the non-powered bogie have come loose from the contact strips on the

motor there is no need to remove the unpowered bogie or destroy the rivet. In any case, if you did drill out the rivet you could not simply replace it with a nut and bolt because the wires go up through the hole on the middle of the rivet!

Given the

OP's description, the appropriate repair is to resolder the wires at the motor bogie end. The wires, as manufactured, have plenty of spare length to do this without having to splice extensions on to them. To get access to the top of the motor bogie, slide

back the springy slotted steel strip which sits on top of the housing on the Underframe Assembly.

Good luck with the soldering - I've done this repair and it's not too hard, using the tips from Southernman777 above.



naugytrax

Posts: 247 posts

Careful soldering work with a very fine tip on your soldering iron will allow you to reattach the pick up wires to the rear unpowered bogie contacts, as has been rightly said the black and green wires run through the middle of the bogie rivet. You don't

need to drill the rivet out or damage that in any way.

The powered bogie is a little more difficult but is fairly easy to do, the best way to resolder the wires to the two S.3442 contact collector units that have prongs that brush on the backs of the

wheels for pickup, is partially strip the motor to release the large Black plastic S.5452 Housing, the housing has four tiny little plastic pins and a tiny bar above each pin that hold the S.3442 collector units fit onto it. Just soldering the wires on can

melt these little plastic pins this causes the collectors to become loose and give loads collection trouble, I used a thin strip on metal to gentle ease them away, so it is best to very carefully ease the collectors off the pins without breaking them then

solder the wires back on the two tabs on the collectors that have previously seen solder, then replace the collectors back onto the four pins and reassemble the rest of the motor.

To do the job properly takes skill and patience and isn't a rushed job.

Part S.5452 is getting a rare spare and the plastic pins are very easily broken so take your time.

I have rebuilt, serviced and restored dozens of Tri-ang, Tri-ang-Hornby and Hornby R.758 Hymeks in my time for customers.

Tri-ang Rocks!

The son of Triangman

Posts: 3789 posts

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